Ancient Roman Sculpture from the Torlonia Collection

Go to one of the newer galleries at the Art Institute of Chicago, at least until June 29, and these figures will greet you. Or at least stay still while you take a good look.Marcus Aurelius

Marcus Aurelius is front and center, looking rather stoic, or should I say Stoic, with some contemporaries near him.

He doesn’t look that much like Alec Guinness. Or rather, Sir Alec doesn’t look much like him. Long ago, I watched The Fall of the Roman Empire in Latin class, one of those last week of the school year sort of activities, finding it a ridiculous mess, despite a stellar cast that included Guinness as the last Good Emperor, and lavish production values.

Also, as a fellow named John in the class pointed out, the movie left out good old Pertinax in its depiction of the events after the death of Commodus. “Where is he?” John said. “Pertinax came after Commodus.” Latin students were the sort likely to notice that kind of omission.

There’s the seed of a series of counterfactual novels: Pertinax survived for some years, re-establishing a chain of Good Emperors, thus preventing the chaos of the 3rd century and hey – Rome didn’t fall. Or something like that.

We’d come to the Art Institute, a few weeks ago now, to see Roman sculpture.Torlonia Collection

After spending time in Berlin seeing the same sort of ancient art, I couldn’t very well miss something so close to home. The collection owes its origin to Prince Giovanni Torlonia (d. 1829) and his son Prince Alessandro (d. 1886), who bought ancient works when the getting was good, and dug up other pieces at their extensive estates.

“The Torlonia Collection is not only the largest private collection of Roman marble sculptures in Italy, but it is also arguably the most important of such private collections in the world,” the Art Institute says. “Comprising 622 works and a wide range of sculptural types and subjects, its holdings rival those of major institutions in Europe, including the Capitoline and Vatican Museums.

“Nearly half of these sculptures, which range in date from the 5th century BCE to the early 4th century CE, have not been publicly displayed in more than 70 years and have been newly cleaned, conserved, and studied specifically for this exhibition, making for a spectacular opportunity to experience their first public presentation in decades.”

For once, a curated experience that reflects the actual meaning of that now abused word, since I’m assuming expert curators were involved. They had a great deal to work with besides imperial portraits.Torlonia Collection Torlonia Collection Torlonia Collection

Such as a sarcophagus depicting the Mighty Hercules at his Labors.Makes you wonder who was the last person to see it who knew the people depicted. A grandchild perhaps, now nearly as remote in time as sarcophagus. After that person was gone, the figures might have been considered revered, but increasingly distant ancestors. Eventually -- who were these people again? Makes you wonder who was the last person to see it who knew the people depicted. A grandchild perhaps, now nearly as remote in time as sarcophagus. After that person was gone, the figures might have been considered revered, but increasingly distant ancestors. Eventually -- who were these people again?

Its lid. sarcophagus

Makes you wonder who the last person was to see it, who knew the people depicted. A grandchild perhaps, now nearly as remote in time as sarcophagus itself. After that person was gone, the figures might have been revered as Noble Ancestors, but increasingly distant ones. Eventually — who were these people again? And so no one minded as the object slipped out of sight, only to be found much later by antiquarians of a remote posterity.

The exhibit included more than people in stone.Torlonia Collection Torlonia Collection

The signage for the exhibit included information I’d never seen depicted in quite this way.Torlonia Collection

Part of the history of these works now includes restorations done during centuries previous to ours, but still comparatively recent. That’s more information that you usual get at a display of ancient art, and I compliment the curators on it.

The World Seems in Tune on a Spring Afternoon

One more image from graduation.

That’s the ceiling of CEFCU Arena in Normal. Once upon a time CEFCU was Caterpillar Employees Federal Credit Union. That company‘s HQ wasn’t far away, also once upon a time. But in more recent years, the entity became an independent financial services firm, renamed Citizens Equity First Credit Union to keep the initialism consistent.

It didn’t occur to me until later that the ceiling is Redbird red.

Speaking of red.May Flowers

Not in Normal or anywhere else I’ve traveled lately, unless you count flowerbeds here in the northwest suburbs, about a mile and a half from home. Not just reds, either.May Flowers May Flowers May Flowers

Nothing like spring flowers to remind you of favorite old springtime songs.

Return to the 400 Block of Main, Bloomington

Now that Ann has finished ISU, I expect two things: solicitations for donations will start, which she will probably deal with by ignoring them, and it will be much less likely that I will go to Bloomington-Normal, just as I haven’t been to Champaign-Urbana lately. With that in mind, I suggested a post-brunch visit on Saturday to the 400 block of Main Street, downtown Bloomington, home of 2 FruGALS Thrift.

The block is also home to Ivy Land Bakery (we bought cookies there once, and didn’t regret it), Exquisite Body Arts (I didn’t get a tattoo there, and don’t regret that either), the Velvet Daisy Shoppe, Merlot and A Masterpiece, That Dapper Pet, Megli Voice Studio, McLean County Democratic Headquarters, Wilson Cycle, Crossroads Fair Trade Goods & Gifts, and Bobzbay Books.Main Street Bloomington

Nice book store, but no postcards that I could see.

While everyone else was poking around 2 FruGALS, I spent some time capturing black-and-white images. On a whim.

Some buildings.Main Street Bloomington Main Street Bloomington Main Street Bloomington

Some details.Main Street Bloomington Main Street Bloomington

I noticed that the metal relief above 418 N. Main is still there, though the business I saw in 2022 is gone. Ayurveda for Healing moved elsewhere; now Jan Brandt Gallery is there, along with Sync Mind Body Pilates & Reiki.Main Street Bloomington

The relief is called “Meditation on a Ball of String” (2021). I know that because a sign has been added sometime in the last three years to describe it. The artist is Herb Eaton. His studio isn’t far away.Main Street Bloomington

Details.Main Street Bloomington Main Street Bloomington Main Street Bloomington

Fine whimsy. Downtowns ought to have more public art like that.

ISU Family Stroll

There was some grumbling about the fact that the ISU graduation ceremony, at least the part that involved Ann, had been scheduled for the evening. Old timers, that is me, remembered the fine spring Friday the 13th in Tennessee long ago when VU held its graduation, and its late morning start.

But ISU’s schedule had an upside. The four of us stayed in a hotel room in Normal that night, which was an extra expense, but also enjoyed a leisurely Saturday morning in our room and at the hotel’s no-extra-charge breakfast, which wasn’t bad. Leaving just before noon, we got a look around the property, whose theme seemed to be faux chateau.

How about making it look like a cake? One of those square multi-layer ones, with some French accents. That may have been the thinking during the design phase. And don’t forget bronze lions.

Ann wanted to spend some time on campus taking pictures at specific spots where she has fond memories, so that’s what we did. A few sites were inside a few of the buildings. We also spent some time, under a very warm sun, at the ISU Quad. Not our first time there.ISU Quad ISU Quad ISU Quad

I did what I do, wandering off for quick looks at this and that. Cook Hall is an old favorite.ISU Quad ISU Quad

In front of Cook Hall is “Ruins IV.”ISU Quad ISU Quad

“Ruins IV was created by Nita Sunderland, an art professor from Bradley University,” notes the ISU web site. “The Ruins IV sculpture reflects stylized medieval imagery and is part of a series that Sunderland said stands as ‘a statement about our relationship with history and former societies,’ as well as the importance of learning from mistakes and experiments of the past.”

If you say so, Nita. Is it ever just enough to say, this sculpture’s got some really cool shapes?

No one else approached the plaque-on-rock memorial to William Saunders (d. 1900), the horticulturalist who designed the lawn, but I did. Nice work, Bill.ISU Quad

Of course we had to visit the Old Main Bell.ISU Quad

All together, our ISU amble took about an hour. Then it was time for brunch at some distance from campus, but still in the greater Bloomington-Normal metroplex. We enjoyed some of the following wonders and more, at middle-class prices.Egg Republic Egg Republic Egg Republic

What a fine day.

Ann’s Graduation

Children grow up fast, according to the cliché. Yet I feel that it was an age ago that I wrote, “About three weeks ago, my second daughter, Ann, was born.” A good age, but an age nevertheless. This weekend I had the pleasure, along with her mother and sister, of attending Ann’s graduation from Illinois State University.ISU Graduate

Commencement took place at the school’s CEFCU Arena on Friday evening.ISU Graduates

She was among the sea of mortar boards.

The crowd was spirited, so you couldn’t quite hear everything everyone said, but so what? I’m glad to report that none of the speakers, all people affiliated with the school in one way or the other, spoke at any great length. That’s another cliché, that commencement speeches are completely forgettable. That one happens to be true, with vanishingly few exceptions (say, Churchill). But it was good that no one spent a long time being forgettable.

Opera Plaza, Dubai

Lots coming up, including Ann’s graduation and a visit by Lilly on that occasion. Back to posting around May 11. Also of note: finally, there have been two days in a row that actually seemed like spring here in northern Illinois.

My ambles in Dubai, under pleasantly warm late winter conditions, took me to a nearly empty plaza not far from both Dubai Mall and the Burj Khalifa. Later I found out the place is called Opera Plaza. At least on maps.

Close by is Dubai Opera, a 2,000-seat performing arts venue with built-in variability, through seats that can be removed or added, and stages of various sizes that can be raised or lowered out of sight, creating different theater configurations.Opera Dubai Opera Dubai Opera Dubai Opera Dubai

If you’re a city with any pretentions to great cityhood, you get yourself an opera house, as Dubai did in 2016. Lead architect on the opera house was a Dane, Janus Rostock

From a site called Euronews, with the city of Dubai as “content partner,” meaning it’s an advertorial:

“I think the biggest challenge for the Dubai Opera project, which we did when I was at Atkins, was to create this building in the midst of, sitting next to, the world’s tallest building, the world’s biggest fountain, one of the largest malls in the world,” he [Rostock] says. “And to ask how could we create a building that was able to “compete” with these wonders of architecture?”

Design-wise, Rostock wanted to create a building shaped like a dhow, the traditional sailing boat of the region. As Rostock explains, the vessel has its roots in the very city itself.

“The Bani-Yas tribe arrived in Dubai and settled on the shores of the creek,” he says, “and it was the dhow that brought prosperity through pearl diving, through fishing and it also brought trade to Dubai… so the dhow itself is really part of that story, it is something which was deeply rooted in the Emirati culture.”

Not bad for an advertorial. If they were more readable, more people would read them. Other, less famed buildings rise over Opera Plaza, probably not taking their cues from pre-modern Dubai.Dubai Dubai

Including a tower still under construction. An international style residential development looking, probably, to attract some of that sweet international oligarch money.Dubai Dubai

With public plazas come public art. Such as this, near the shores of the Persian Gulf, some Persian art. "Khalvat" (2014) by Sahand Hesamiyan, an Iranian artist. 
"Khalvat" (2014) by Sahand Hesamiyan, an Iranian artist. 
"Khalvat" (2014) by Sahand Hesamiyan, an Iranian artist. 

“Khalvat” (2014) by Sahand Hesamiyan, an Iranian artist. Steel, stainless steel, gold leaf and electrostatic paint.

More details at ground level, halfway around the world.

Instant familiarity in a setting far from its usual North American haunts. The work of Mueller. Hydrant maker to the world, it seems.

Indian Food

Stop for tea? Food?” our driver said partly through the longish drive from Jaipur to Delhi, on out last full day in the country. I’m sure he had a list, probably in his head, of places he would earn a bit of baksheesh for delivering us.

This wasn’t an issue. That’s how the game is played, and besides, after nearly a week in India, we’d had some pretty good Indian food as a result, mostly the sort of north Indian specialties also available in the United States during the last 30 years or so: curries, dals, samosas, biryani, chicken tikka masala, lots of good naan, lassi, and so forth. Also, corn flakes at breakfast sometimes with warm milk.

His best suggestion was a roadside pullout zone some miles outside metro Delhi sporting an agglomeration of small food stalls, with long benches for common seating under the shadow of a large shed roof, and stand-up eating tables outside in the late February warmth. Indian roads are well traveled by private cars now, and the place had a healthy crowd, though not overwhelming, enough to create a hum of ambient conversation and kid squeals. The ambient smell: ah, Indian spices. Or, as I expect they call them, spices.

We bought tea in small earthen cups with the assistance of a boy of about 10, surely related to the proprietor, who earned a few rupees from me for his trouble. We downed it standing up at a table. But I don’t want to idealize the stop: trucks belched smoke into the air nearby, small mounds of debris – such as pieces of brick or cinderblock, along with some trash – dotted the grounds near the parking lot, which was also home to a few mangy dogs. Still, it was a lively place, and the well-spiced chai went down well.

Our driver’s second-best suggestion was the one between Jaipur and Delhi. We weren’t especially hungry, but had light sandwiches.grilled cheese in India

The humble grilled cheese sandwich. Imagine my surprise when I took a first bite and the cheese focused me completely on eating the rest of the sandwich with the same gusto. Why is the cheese so good? What kind of cheese, anyway? None I could identify right away. I put these questions out of my mind and enjoyed the cheese, but now I’m thinking about them again.

Happy cows? That seems like an oversimplification, but it is true that in India cows are on that list that every society unconsciously draws up of most favored animals, such as dogs and cats in North America. So less stress for bovines, better-tasting milk products. But that seems a little hippy-dippy and without a scientific basis. On the other hand —

The last night in Delhi we walked the short distance to a small branch of a very large international organization and had dinner. In a place without beef, chicken is the star.

Some observations (I’m working on a coffee table book, McDonald’s Around the World.)*

  • As I was slowly carrying my tray up a flight of stairs, a young employee came to help, taking the tray to our table. She didn’t wait around for a tip, though I would have given her one.
  • I didn’t make exact notes of the price, but accounting for the relative strength of the dollar (at the time), I’d say the food was a discount to domestic McDonald’s, though it has been a good many months since I’ve been to a U.S McD’s. Maybe 20 percent less as a guesstimate.
  • The food was… McDonald’s. Not bad, in other words, with the French fries hewing exactly to the formula.
  • The paper place mat was, alas, not distinctive to India, unlike in some places and times. My idea of a souvenir is the paper place mat I got in ’90s Moscow, at the only McDonald’s I’ve seen with bouncers.

The place was busy, and clearly popular with those under 30. I might have been the oldest person in the place, though that happens more and more to me. I’ve seen it before: McDonald’s in Japan in the 1990s, which attracted few of Yuriko’s parents’ generation. I didn’t visit a McDonald’s in Japan this time around, but my money would be on finding people of Yuriko’s generation well represented.

* No I’m not.

Tetsudo Wasuremono Ichi

The sign doesn’t say the winter accessories are ¥300, but rather that they start at ¥300. A critical detail, but even so the items aren’t pricey.Tetsudo Wasuremono Ichi, Osaka

We’d come across a curious shop deep in the heart of Osaka.Tetsudo Wasuremono Ichi, Osaka

Riding into Osaka on a Keihan regional line, we transferred to the city’s subway system, specifically the Midosuji line (御堂筋線, Midōsuji-sen), which runs under a grand avenue of that name, Midosuji Blvd., for a few miles. The Midosuji line proceeds from Umeda to Namba and beyond to places like Tennoji, names that might not mean much to the outside world, but which are old and familiar to me.

My first summer in Japan, I hung out briefly with Bernadette and Lyn, two Kiwis, and Sean, a Californian.

“I tell people at home I can speak Japanese,” Sean said one fine evening at Osaka Castle Park. He’d only been in the country a few weeks.

“Oh, yeah?” said the saucy Lyn.

“Yeah, Yodoyabashi. Hommachi. Daikokucho!”

That was a laugh. He’d rattled off some of the station names on the Midosuji line.

I digress. Yuriko and I went a few stations south, then emerged at ground level and headed east on foot, along another major avenue, though without the ginko trees or skyscrapers or wide bridges of Midosuji Blvd. I had to look up the new street’s name later: Chou-Dori, a literal translation of which would be, Middle Road.

Above Chou-Dori is a major expressway. Built under the expressway is a row of massive buildings, one after another, maybe 10 or more of them: Semba Center, the entire collection is called. Space is at a premium in urban Japan.

Each Semba Center building had entrances on either end, directly in the shadow of the expressway, and each building – at least the half-dozen or so we walked through – was packed with discount retailers, lining each side of a hall that ran the entire length of the building. You want discounters in Osaka, this is the place to come, Yuriko told me. Clothes, mostly, including more than one cloth merchant, but also household goods and decorative items.

At Semba Center Building No. 9, 3-3-110 Senbacho, Chuo-ku, Osaka (to give its full address) is Tetsudo Wasuremono Ichi.

That is, the Railroad Forgotten Items Store. It’s a store that sells items left on JR trains – presumably Osaka-area JR trains, since I know there is an equivalent store in Tokyo. Many millions of people use those trains every day, so it stands to reason that there is a constant flow of many left items, all the time.

JR must have a deal with the store owner, the details of which hardly matter, though I suppose the railroad acts as a wholesaler of items left over a few months (some details are here). I’ll bet really valuable items aren’t sold that way, though. If somehow your Brasher Doubloon ended up in the JR lost and found, it would mean you were grossly careless, someone who found it had no idea what it was, and a JR-favored coin dealer would get to buy it.

Be that as it may, people leave behind a lot of umbrellas. In Osaka, there’s no excuse to pay full price for an umbrella.Tetsudo Wasuremono Ichi, Osaka

The place is well stocked with clothes, too.Tetsudo Wasuremono Ichi, Osaka Tetsudo Wasuremono Ichi, Osaka Tetsudo Wasuremono Ichi, Osaka

Many are the small items. Seems only reasonable.Tetsudo Wasuremono Ichi, Osaka Tetsudo Wasuremono Ichi, Osaka

People lose some odd things.Tetsudo Wasuremono Ichi, Osaka

There’s enough readable text for me probably to figure out what this is, but somehow not knowing is more satisfying as a travel memory.

Prague Castle: St Vitus Cathedral

When thinking about my recent visit to Prague with my brother, certain questions come to mind. Such as, what is St. Vitus Dance? Who was St. Vitus?

As for the latter question, he is one of those legendary saints, emerging from the bloody mists of early Christian persecution. “According to the legend… St. Vitus suffered martyrdom at a very early age under the emperor Diocletian,” the trusty 1911 Encyclopædia Britannica notes.

“Son of a Sicilian nobleman who was a worshipper of idols, Vitus was converted to the Christian faith without the knowledge of his father, was denounced by him and scourged, but resisted all attacks on his profession… Among the diseases against which St Vitus is invoked is chorea, also known as St. Vitus’s Dance.”

Chorea refers to abnormal involuntary movement disorders of a few types, but not epilepsy. A more detailed entry about St. Vitus is in the 1913 Catholic Encyclopedia, which says: “St. Vitus is appealed to, above all, against epilepsy, which is called St. Vitus’s Dance, and he is one of the Fourteen Martyrs who give aid in times of trouble.”

The text seems to conflate chorea with epilepsy, but you don’t go to books of that vintage for current medical knowledge. Regardless, St. Vitus has a long history of veneration, including in Bohemia. That would account for the naming of St. Vitus Cathedral, which we visited in Prague, coming in early afternoon by way of a streetcar and then a less-visited entrance to Prague Castle.St Vitus St Vitus St Vitus

An impressive hulk of a church on a high hill, St. Vitus Cathedral is a major presence in Prague Castle.St Vitus St Vitus

When we were here in 1994, the church was dedicated to Vitus alone, but these days it is the Metropolitan Cathedral of Saints Vitus, Wenceslaus and Adalbert (metropolitní katedrála svatého Víta, Václava a Vojtěcha). The renaming happened a few years later. The thinking might have been that it was all well and good to honor a popular Sicilian saint, but it would also be good to add some hometown martyrs.St Vitus St Vitus St Vitus

Inside the church was, to rephrase for our time (in its original form, a favorite expression of my mother’s), cold as the mammaries of a Wicca practitioner. Colder in fact than outside on that day in mid-March, but I’ll take that as a blow for authenticity. For most of the cathedral’s long history, including centuries when it wasn’t finished, its HVAC was the Lord.

The chill might have discouraged sitting around on pews, but not from taking a circuit up a side aisle, around behind the altar, and back down the other side aisle.

What is it about the Gothic ceilings? A vast volume of space, or at least the perception of a vast volume of space, but it’s more than that.St Vitus St Vitus St Vitus St Vitus

A small sample of the rich detail.St Vitus St Vitus St Vitus

Call this one mother and child and prelate.St Vitus

Last but hardly least, a gargoyle from outside now on display in the church.St Vitus St Vitus

Retired from the madcap life up there on the roof with the other gargoyles. Or maybe their activities up there aren’t the stuff of comedy. The Gargoyles of St. Vitus sounds like a Victorian horror story. Better yet, The Dancing Gargoyles of St. Vitus. Could be an episode of Night Gallery or, with updated tech, Black Mirror.

Alte Nationalgalerie, Berlin

I’m not sure exactly what “Hey, this is a World Heritage Site! Show some respect, wanker!” would be in German, but I suspect in German you probably could shout just the right mix of threat and shaming.

Spotted in March on Museum Island (Museumsinsel) in Berlin.Alte Nationalgalerie, Berlin

Note that the red-letter headline is in English. I think of that as more of a function of English as a ramshackle world language than the propensity of Americans, Britons or Australians to use bullhorns while peeing on World Heritage Sites from their bicycles or scooters. Well, maybe Australians would. (I trade in that stereotype with abiding affection for that nation, since the Australians I know would sound right back about Americans). To be honest, it also sounds like something Florida Man would do.

We were in the vicinity of the Alte Nationalgalerie.Alte Nationalgalerie, Berlin Alte Nationalgalerie, Berlin Alte Nationalgalerie, Berlin

Make it a Greco-Roman temple, at least on the outside, King Friedrich Wilhelm IV must have said, though he didn’t live to see its completion in 1876. August Stüler was tasked with the design, but he didn’t live to see it done either.

The museum complex on Museum Island certainly deserves to be on the UNESCO list. A detail from the museum’s tourist leaflet shows the Old National Gallery in relation to the others, and the fact that the Pergamon Museum is “closed for refurbishment.” Dang.

We didn’t go directly to his gallery up on the third floor, but I knew the Casper David Friedrich was a priority at Alte Nationalgalerie. Like visiting an old friend. They say maintaining social relations is important for one’s health in older years, and maybe that’s so. But I’m sure visiting old friends makes your life better in the here and now. Mine, anyway. Including mainly people, but also places and favorites in art or entertainment.

My old buddy Casper’s canvasses are usually good for more than one detail. Such as “Abtei im Eichwald” (1809/10), sporting a good old Casper David Friedrich moon.Alte Nationalgalerie Alte Nationalgalerie

Or “Eichbaum im Schnee” (1829). The man had a gift for trees too.Alte Nationalgalerie Alte Nationalgalerie

This one is CDF and it isn’t, since it is a copy of one of his paintings, “Klosterrunie im Schnee” (1891), by an unknown artist. The original didn’t survive WWII.Alte Nationalgalerie

There was even an appearance of CDF himself, at work, in a portrait by colleague Georg Friedrich Kersting (d. 1847).Alte Nationalgalerie

There probably would have been more CDF on display, but as it happens, the place to be right now to see many of his works is the Met, which is hosting Caspar David Friedrich: The Soul of Nature until May 11. Seventy-five paintings, drawings, and prints by Friedrich are in that show.

No matter, the museum offers plenty else to see, with a collection of European art roughly from the French Revolution to WWI. The place wasn’t crowded, but a fair number of museumgoers were around.Alte Nationalgalerie Alte Nationalgalerie Alte Nationalgalerie

We spent a while looking around ourselves.

Detail from “Die Pontinischen Sümpfe bei Sonnenuntergang” (“The Pontine Marshes at Sunset”) (1848) by August Kopisch, which has a Chesley Bonestell vibe.Alte Nationalgalerie, Berlin

Detail from “Doppleporträt der Brüder Jacob und Wilhelm Grimm” (1855) by Elisabeth Jerichau-Baumann.Alte Nationalgalerie, Berlin

Detail from “Tükische Straßenszene“ (1888) by Osman Hamdi Bey.Alte Nationalgalerie, Berlin

Detail from “Porträt Kaiser Wilhelm II” (1895) by Vilma Parlaghy.Alte Nationalgalerie, Berlin

 Tough luck, Willie. But at least your hope didn’t end at the end of a rope.