Golden West Nuggets

This is the kind of detail that keeps the built environment interesting. A visible part of an alarm system of some earlier vintage, operable or not.Placerville, California

To be found in Placerville, California. You can also take a look at a small tower of some vintage in that town.Placerville, California Placerville, California

Placerville’s old bell tower. For use in the pre-electronic communication days, with a ring meaning something’s going on, come quick.

Wish I’d been hungry in Placerville, but no.Placerville, California

Some miles away, a Coloma plaque. I’m a fairly regular reader of plaques.

Another. I could post nothing but plaques, but that would be more granular than I want to be.

It’s a good-looking part of California anyway.Coloma Valley, California

With recreational opportunities.Coloma Valley, California

Mark Twain on Lake Tahoe (from Roughing It): “At last Lake Tahoe burst upon us, a noble sheet of blue water lifted some 6,000 feet above the level of the sea, and walled in by a rim of snow-clad mountain peaks that towered aloft a full 3,000 feet higher still.

“As it lay there with the shadows of the mountains, brilliantly photographed upon its surface, I thought it must surely be the fairest picture the whole earth affords.”

Enjoyable vistas for sure. It was good to see other people there.Lake Tahoe 2022 Lake Tahoe 2022

I had breakfast my first morning in Reno at a restaurant for old people — except that’s me now, isn’t it? But on a weekday mid-morning, I was one of the younger patrons. Decent food, though a touch expensive (a contagion from California, no doubt, plus the inflation du jour).

After I finished, I went out to leave, but noticed a sign I had to see, not far away. I took a closer look.Reno
reno

Not in the market, but someone must be. If that isn’t local color, I don’t know what is.

When serendipity is with you on the road, that kind of sighting leads to others. That’s what happened that morning in Reno. This was nearby the wedding chapel.Burning Man art in Reno

“Bee Dance” by Andrea Greenlees (2019), according to its sign, which also said it was created at Burning Man that year.

On the next block — all this was on West Fourth Street in Reno — was a closed off place called Glow Plaza, an outdoor event space that only opened this year. Well, open for concerts on the weekends. It wasn’t open for me to look around, though there was some construction going on at an adjacent site (probably new apartments), so maybe that restriction was just temporary.

Anyway, I got a look from the sidewalk. New-looking sculptures.Reno polar bear Reno art

Including vintage Reno neon, or maybe close-replica homages.Reno neon Reno neon

Speaking of apartments, this property in downtown Reno has the look of a 2010s adaptive reuse. I checked, and it is. It used to be a motel. The loss of an SRO property? Maybe, but I didn’t know there was much of that left.The Mod, Reno

Now it’s an “upscale micro-unit living facility,” to borrow a phrase from Northern Nevada Business Weekly. I checked again, and its rents range from $1,100 to $1,700 (the low end of the range is for about 250 square feet).

Could have done an entire posting of name plates on vintage cars at the National Automobile Museum. The familiar and the less familiar.National Automobile Museum, Reno National Automobile Museum, Reno

That last one’s an attention-getter. You can find it on a Krit Motor Car Co. auto, made years before jackbooted lowlifes shanghaied the symbol.

The Battle Born Memorial in Carson City, dedicated to fallen soldiers from Nevada.Battle Born Memorial, Carson City, Nevada Battle Born Memorial, Carson City, Nevada

At first I thought, iron? True, iron is at the heart of modern war. But as soon as I was inside, and looked up, I realized how fitting the material is. A remarkable memorial.

Especially when you gaze up at it.Battle Born Memorial, Carson City, Nevada

The names of the fallen are inscribed there.Battle Born Memorial, Carson City, Nevada Battle Born Memorial, Carson City, Nevada

Eight hundred and ninety-five names, I understand. Punch Architecture did the design, which was completed in 2018.

Later I looked up Battle Born. I didn’t know that was a nickname for Nevada. Everyone’s heard Silver State, but not Battle Born State. I puzzled on that a while, but eventually realized that when Nevada entered the union (1864; Lincoln needed another two Senators), it joined the fight, as a state, to keep that union together.

A much smaller metal-work, underfoot in Carson City. Good to know I’ve been on the Kit Carson Trail.Carson City, Nevada

Underfoot in Reno.Reno, Nevada

On the road to Virginia City.Gold Canyon, Nevada

The drive out from Virginia City to I-580 is along Nevada 341, and it’s a winding drop of a drive through arid landforms. This snip from Google maps illustrates the winding-est part of the road, called Geiger Grade Road at that point. The entire drop is from more than 6,100 feet above sea level at Virginia City to Reno’s 4,500 feet.

Light traffic on a sunny weekday afternoon. A fine drive if you’re paying attention. Almost car commercial driving.

This instead of a real map.Donner Memorial State Historic Park

No, California. Don’t do this. It’s false economy. I don’t know how, I just know that it is.

I figured out my way around without a gizmo map. I even found a spot a few hundred yards from a parking lot, and a little off a nearby trail, where I could sit in the sun for a few minutes, and listen to only faint sounds. Almost as quiet as Joshua Tree or Big Bend NPs.Donner Memorial State Park

The Hotel Charlotte in Groveland, California. Now a hundred years old, it’s the kind of place that gives you a brass key, and lets you know there’s a fee for replacing it. Basic and comfortable, though the most expensive place I stayed on this trip; you’re really paying for near access to Yosemite NP.Groveland, California

Main Street in Groveland (California 120), just after dawn.Groveland, California

A few more images. Such as in Sacramento.lumpia truck Sacramento

I had to look up lumpia: spring rolls found in the Philippines and Indonesia. And northern California, it seems. Too bad I wasn’t hungry. Also, it was closed. Not long after, I saw a Balinese restaurant in Old Sacramento. Still wasn’t hungry. Damn.

I was driving to the last place I was going to stay in Sacramento on the late afternoon of October 7, and I got a little turned around, wandering some neighborhood streets before the inevitable moment when I pulled over to consult Google Maps.

I chanced on this place.McKinley Rose Garden, Sacramento

What a garden it is.McKinley Rose Garden, Sacramento McKinley Rose Garden, Sacramento McKinley Rose Garden, Sacramento

An extravaganza of roses.McKinley Rose Garden, Sacramento McKinley Rose Garden, Sacramento McKinley Rose Garden, Sacramento

Go in the garden and ask the rose its meaning.

Dinner Salad & Garden Still Lifes

Last night for dinner, we had tilapia and salad — cucumbers and tomatoes from our back yard. Mostly Yuriko attends to the various garden plants in pots next to our deck, though I do a fair amount of watering, and put the pots back upright when the wind blows them down.

A most delicious salad, pictured here in our red plastic mixing bowl. Looked like this before we added a bit of oil-based dressing and I added croutons to my serving.

The yard produces somewhat more than we can eat. When that happens, as an old friend of mine put it, you’re gardening for virtue.

As long as I had my multitudinous image-maker handy, I thought I’d do a few still lifes as well.

So seldom do I write about art that I had to check: the plural is indeed still lifes, not still lives, which maybe could refer to a cave-dwelling hermits who lead still lives.

Around Lake Michigan Bits & Pieces

Here’s a set of facts that only I’m likely care about, but I find remarkable anyway.

My recent trip with friends to the UP and back began on July 30 and ended on August 7. Fifteen years earlier, in 2007, I took a trip with my immediate family to the UP and back, from July 30 to August 7. I didn’t know about the coincidence until I read a previous posting of mine. I wish I could say that I’d taken a July-30-to-August-7 trip 15 years before that, in 1992, but no: Singapore and Malaysia was June 29 to July 10 that year (I had to check.)

Both were counterclockwise around Lake Michigan, but such is the richness of worthwhile sights in that part of the country that the two trips touched only at one point: the Mackinac Bridge. And in the fact that we spent time in the UP.

Is it so different now than 15 years ago? Except for maybe better Internet connectivity (I hope so) and maybe a worse opioid problem (I hope not), not a lot seems to have changed.

The UP’s population in 2020, per the Census Bureau, was about 301,600, representing a decline from 311,300 in 2010 and 317,200 in 2000. Truth be told, however, the UP’s population has never been more than about 325,600, which it was in 1910. After a swelling in population in the 19th century, especially after the Civil War, numbers have held fairly steady, meaning an increasingly smaller percentage of Michiganders and Americans, for that matter, live in the UP.

A spiffy public domain map.

Of course, the trip started in metro Chicago, and our first destination was BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir Chicago in Bartlett, Illinois. A striking piece of India within short driving distance of home, I once said, and I’m pretty sure my friends agreed with that assessment.

Next: Indiana Dunes National Park. I had in mind we’d walk along a trail I knew, and a beach I liked, but no parking was to be had on a Saturday in summer. We were able to stop at the the Century of Progress Architectural District for a few minutes, and amble down to the beach for a few more from there. They liked that, too, and I’m sure had never heard of that corner of Indiana.

Across the line in Michigan, we went to Redamak’s in New Buffalo. Crowded, but it was then that we collectively decided, though it was unspoken, that good food in a restaurant setting was worth the risk of the BA.5 variant. I’m glad to report that none of us had any Covid-like symptoms during the entire run of the trip.

Those were my first-day suggestions. Now my friends had one: Saugatuck, Michigan, which is actually two small towns, the other being named Douglas. I’d seen it on maps, but that was the extent of my awareness. Turns out it’s a popular place on a summer Saturday, too. Especially on the main streets.Saugatuck, Michigan Saugatuck, Michigan Saugatuck, Michigan

Once we found parking, the place got a lot more pleasant. We wandered around, looking at a few shops and buying ice cream for a short sit down.

A small selection of Saugatuck businesses vying for those visitor dollars (no special order): Uncommon Coffee Roasters, Glik’s clothing store, Kilwin’s Chocolate, Sand Bar Saloon, Country Store Antiques, Bella Vita Spa + Suites, Tree of Life Juice, the Owl House (“gifts for the wise and the whimsical”), LUXE Saugatuck, Santa Fe Trading Co., Marie’s Green Apothecary (“all things plant made”), Mother Moon book store, and Amazwi Contemporary Art, just to list only a fraction of the businesses.

Not a lot of neon, but there was this.Saugatuck, Michigan

I liked the little public garden. Rose Garden, at least according to Google Maps.Saugatuck, Michigan

And its sculpture, “Cyclists,” by William Tye (2003).
Saugatuck, Michigan

At the Frederik Meijer Park & Sculpture Garden, we encountered a flock of what looked like wild turkeys.Frederik Meijer Sculpture Garden turkeys Frederik Meijer Sculpture Garden turkeys

The marina at Mackinaw City, from which boats to Mackinac Island depart, and a highly visible structure nearby.Mackinac City, Michigan Mackinac City, Michigan

You can be sure that we spent that afternoon on Mackinac Island.Mackinac Island

Besides the Mackinac Island Ramble (that’s what I’m calling our walk there), we took a number of other good walks on the trip.

One was at the 390-acre Offield Family Working Forest Reserve, near Harbor Springs, Michigan. Its excellent wayfinding — clear and immediately useful signs and maps — helped us through its mildly labyrinthine paths that curve through a lush forest with no major water features, including parts that had clearly been used as a pine plantation.

Clouds threatened rain but only produced mist in the cool air. Wildflowers might have been a little past peak, but there was a profusion, and a rainy spring and early summer put them in robust clusters of red and blue and gold and white, near and far from our path. Everywhere a damp forest scent, wonderful and off-putting at the same time.

On August 5, our last full day in the UP, we had lunch in the small town of Grand Marais, on the shores of Lake Superior. As tourist towns go, it’s minor league, but all the more pleasant for it. The extent of souvenir stands at the main crossroads was a single enclosed booth, staffed by a young college woman who was maybe a relative of the owner. The selection of postcards was limited, but I got a few.

Right there on the main street of Grand Marais is the Pickle Barrel House. You can’t miss it. We didn’t.

Afterward, we found our way to the eastern reaches of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, since the town is considered the eastern gateway to the lakeshore. That end of the lakeshore doesn’t have the pictured rocks, but there’s a lot else.

One trail on lakeshore land took us down to a beach on the south shore of Lake Superior. Sabel Beach, by name. You climb down a couple of hundred stairs to get there, but see the vigorous Sable Falls on the way. The way wasn’t empty, but not nearly the mob city on the southern shore of Lake Michigan or the waterfront at Mackinac Island.

Another lakeshore trail took us along Sable Dunes, which only involved a modest amount of climbing — not nearly as much as the Dune Climb at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore — though sometimes the path underfoot was sand without vegetation. On the whole, the dunes support a full collection of the sort of hardy yellow-green grasses and bushes and gnarled trees you see near a beach. For human hikers, the dunes eventually provide a more elevated vista of the lake, which reminded me of the look over Green Bay last year.

We spent two nights in Newberry, Michigan. Still no more signs of møøse than the last time I was there. I did have the opportunity to take a short walk around town. This is the Luce County Historical Museum (closed at that moment), which was once the county jail and sheriff’s residence. It’s complete with a time capsule on the grounds for the Newberry centennial in 1982. Planned re-opening: 2082. That’s optimism.Newberry, Michigan

A few other nearby buildings.Newberry, Michigan Newberry, Michigan

Saint Gregory’s Catholic Church.Saint Gregory's Catholic Church

We encountered rain much of the last day of the trip, August 7, so mostly it was a drive from our lakeside rental near Green Bay (the water feature) in Wisconsin home to the northwest suburbs. We didn’t stop in Milwaukee, though we buzzed through downtown on I-94, which offers a closeup of the skyline.

We did stop at Mars Cheese Castle before we left Wisconsin. How could we not do that?

Frederik Meijer Gardens and Sculpture Park

You know, I said to my friends as we entered the Frederik Meijer Gardens and Sculpture Park in Grand Rapids on the second day of our trip, this place seems larger than it used to be.

Just an impression I couldn’t quantify on the spot. The place just felt larger.

My instincts were right. Nearly five years ago, The Art Newspaper published an item about the Meijer Garden’s 2010s expansion:

“[Meijer Gardens] is getting a major upgrade thanks to a successful $115m fundraising campaign, which will allow it to show off recent acquisitions and support the 750,000 annual visitors it has welcomed for three consecutive years — nearly four times the number it was designed for when it opened in 1995.

“The four-year building project, which launched in September [2017], includes new education and visitor centres, an expansion of the current indoor exhibition space and a transportation centre on the Meijer Gardens’ 158-acre main campus, designed by the New York-based Tod Williams Billie Tsien Architects.”

As we wandered through the new visitor center, we passed sweeping high ceilings, sizable sculptures, meeting space, a gift shop, an auditorium and a Chihuly.Frederik Meijer Gardens

When you get a chance to see a Chihuly, take a good look.

That was just our start of gazing at sizable works of art — and sizable plants. The new visitor center leads straight to the Lena Meijer Conservatory.Lena Meijer Conservatory
Lena Meijer Conservatory
Lena Meijer Conservatory Lena Meijer Conservatory

Outside is just as lush in summer.Frederik Meijer Gardens Frederik Meijer Gardens Frederik Meijer Gardens

A little fauna to go with the flora.
Frederik Meijer Gardens

Sculptures rise amid the greenery, or are tucked away in small glades, or have their own plazas. Some I remembered, some I didn’t.

Sean Henry’s “Lying Man” (2003) always watches the zenith, rain or shine.Frederik Meijer Gardens

“Neuron” (2010) by Roxy Paine didn’t exist the last time I came this way. But I recognized the artist right away.Frederik Meijer Gardens Frederik Meijer Gardens

“Male/Female” by Jonathan Borofsky (2004).Frederik Meijer Gardens and Sculpture Park

Also easy to recognize: the blobbity stylings of a Henry Moore. “Bronze Form,” in fact, a 1985 casting, so only a year before the sculptor died.Frederik Meijer Gardens and Sculpture Park

I really liked this one: “Iron Tree” by Ai Weiwei (2013). Iron, but also stainless steel.Frederik Meijer Gardens and Sculpture Park

I remember these figures. They’re a little hard to forget. “Introspective” (1999) by Sophie Ryder.Frederik Meijer Gardens and Sculpture Park

“Plantoir” (2001) by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen. Oldenburg died just last month. Also familiar; their work tends to stand out.Frederik Meijer Gardens and Sculpture Park

“Aria” (1983) by Alexander Liberman.

That’s only a small sample of the small sample of artwork we saw. Much more was in the greenery or entirely out of sight, off in another part of the garden. We spent most of the afternoon at Meijer Gardens and somehow only passed through a corner of the place. Another section, for instance, includes a Japanese garden developed since the last time I was here. We didn’t make it. That just means, of course, I need to go back to Grand Rapids.

Before we left, we made sure we saw “The American Horse” (1999) by Nina Akamu.The American Horse 2022 The American Horse 2022

” ‘The American Horse’ was created by famed animaliere, or animal sculptor, Nina Akamu,” the Meijer Gardens notes. “The work was inspired, in part, by one created by Renaissance master Leonardo da Vinci for the Duke of Milan in the late 15th century.

“This project, championed by Fred Meijer in the late 1990s, resulted in two casts of the 24-foot monument — one for Meijer Gardens and one for the city of Milan, Italy. In addition to inspiration from Leonardo, Akamu was motivated by the history of equine imagery and the study of horses.”

“The American Horse” is 14 years older than the last time I saw it —
The American Horse 2008

— but none the worse for wear, which suggests regular (and costly) maintenance.

Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory

Some years ago, we passed through Fort Wayne on the way home from Dayton. It was a Sunday afternoon, and we had a choice between lunch and spending some time at the Foellinger–Freimann Botanical Conservatory, which is in downtown Fort Wayne. Lunch usually wins out in such situations, and it did then.

But I didn’t forget about Fort Wayne’s conservatory. I like a good conservatory or botanical garden, whether under glass or open air. Forty years ago, while on my first visit to D.C., I happened on my first botanical garden — the most impressive United States Botanic Garden — and that piqued my interest.

On July 2, we arrived in Fort Wayne an hour before the conservatory closed. Enough time this time. Not the most promising exterior. I’ve always been partial to domes when it comes to sheltering large numbers of plants.Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory
Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory

Foellinger-Freimann itself is nearly 40 years old, the result of redevelopment of the site by city, with the support of the Foellinger Foundation and the Frank Freimann Charitable Trust, both local orgs.

The grounds include 24,500 square feet of indoor gardens under three structures with slanting glass roofs, plus four outside gardens. From across the street, it looks a little bland, but it works well as a green space once you’re inside.

The first roofed garden has changing displays. The theme when we went was the gardens of Paris. Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory

Nice. I guess it could have been the gardens of Nice — that would be different. But no, Paris gets all the glory. Wonder if the Corn Palace ever does Paris as its theme.

Next, a tropical garden. Guaranteed to be lush in July or January.Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory

Too many good-looking flowers to name. At least, I don’t want to bother with names.Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory

And not just flowers.Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory

But I will say this is a breadfruit plant.
Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory

In the desert habitat, the plants are sparser, as you’d expect, but no less interesting.Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory

Various cacti, of course.Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory

Including the fishhook barrel cactus, a painful-sounding name if there ever was one.
Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory

Outside, it was summer and the gardens weren’t short on blossoms.Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory

Just before heading back inside, I caught this view.
Foellinger-Freimann Botanical Conservatory

The Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, which is across the street, looks like it’s inspecting the glass of Foellinger-Freimann.

Downtown Fort Wayne

RIP, Will Friend. I didn’t know him well, but did meet him at events over the years, and we got along. I didn’t realize he was quite that young.

Toward the end of the afternoon on Saturday, we took a walk in downtown Fort Wayne. Not long after parking the car, this caught our attention.Wells Street Bridge, Fort Wayne Wells Street Bridge, Fort Wayne

Not just any pedestrian bridge, but the historic Wells Street Bridge over the St. Marys River. A sign on the 1884 truss bridge names the Wrought Iron Bridge Company of Akron, Ohio, as the bridgebuilder.Wells Street Bridge, Fort Wayne

For nearly 100 years, vehicular traffic crossed the bridge, but in 1982 it became a pedestrian walkway. A view from the bridge, toward a less-developed part of the city.Wells Street Bridge, Fort Wayne

After you cross the bridge, there is another elevated walkway, this one over a small section of riverbank. The blue building in the background is a block of riverside apartments, under construction. Move to Fort Wayne, young members of the laptop class. While rents don’t exactly seem cheap there — I don’t think anywhere counts as that anymore — there have to better deals than in the large cities.Riverwalk, Fort Wayne Riverwalk, Fort Wayne

The walk offers a view of the Fort Wayne — skyline isn’t quite the word. A view of a few  larger buildings in the background, with Promenade Park in the foreground. We soon  rested a while at that park, lounging around on iron chairs at an iron table, drinking soda. Rest: always an essential part of any walkabout.Downtown Fort Wayne

Occasional party boats ply the St. Marys.Downtown Fort Wayne

Away from the river is Freimann Square, home of the aforementioned Anthony Wayne statue, as well as a fountain and flower beds. Downtown Fort Wayne
Downtown Fort Wayne

Not far is the Allen County Courthouse, designed around the turn of the 20th century by Hoosier architect Brentwood Tolan.Courthouse, Downtown Fort Wayne Courthouse, Downtown Fort Wayne

The figure on top, I’ve read, is a copper Lady Liberty that turns, as a vane does, with the wind.

A few decades pass and you get art deco. In this case, the Lincoln Bank Tower, another of those structures started just in time — 1929. Design by another Hoosier architect, Alvin Strauss.Lincoln Bank Building, Fort Wayne
It could have been the German American Bank Tower, but for some hard-to-figure reason the bank changed its name in 1918.

The Japanese Friendship Garden, on a tenth of an acre near the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, was gift of one of Fort Wayne’s sister cities, Takaoka. I had to look it up, even though I probably passed through it on a train the fall we went to Hida-Takayama. I suspect most Japanese, faced with the name Fort Wayne, would have to look it up, too.

The museum was closed when we got there, but the garden is always open. Bonus: the garden also features a 2002 time capsule under a rock, slated for a 2027 opening.Friendship Japanese Garden, Fort Wayne Friendship Japanese Garden, Fort Wayne

Elsewhere downtown: Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception. Dating from 1860, it is the oldest church building in Fort Wayne, with its Gothic design attributed to Rev. Msgr. Julian Benoit.Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, Fort Wayne Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, Fort Wayne

Vigil mass was about to start, but we got a peek.Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, Fort Wayne
Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, Fort Wayne

It isn’t the only sizable church around. A few blocks away is St. Paul’s Evangelical Lutheran Church. St. Paul's Evangelical Lutheran Church , Fort Wayne

Not open. Too bad, looks like quite a looker inside.

Northern Indiana Dash

Ah, high summer.

That’s in Dallas. I’m not there. Today’s high here was 79 F., a dip from a hot and muggy 90s-day on Tuesday. Several degrees of latitude will make that difference.

One of these days, the times might catch up with Gen. “Mad” Anthony Wayne, leader in the Revolution and scourge of the Northwest Territory Indians, but for now, you can find him on horseback in bronze at Freimann Square in downtown Fort Wayne, Indiana, in a work by Chicagoan George Etienne Ganiere (1865-1935).Gen. Mad Anthony Wayne statue, Fort Wayne

We gazed a Mad Anthony for a few moments as part of our trip through northern Indiana. I wanted to take a short trip over the long Independence Day weekend, but I didn’t want it to consume the entire three days.

So on Saturday, we left in mid-morning and made our way to Fort Wayne, where we stayed overnight. On Sunday, we returned across northern Indiana to get home, which took up most of the day.

We arrived in Nappanee, Indiana, for lunch on Saturday. I’m glad to report that Main Street Roasters (not so new anymore, it seems) makes a fine pulled pork sandwich. Yuriko said the ingredients in her Cobb salad tasted very fresh, and I sampled some, and agreed. The place was doing a brisk business.Main Street Roasters

We figured the main source for both fresh pork and fresh greens was the Amish farms in the area. Nappanee is considered the focus of one of the country’s larger Amish populations, though that’s a little hard to tell in a casual look around downtown, which isn’t so different from other Indiana towns its size (pop. nearly 7,000). Out away from town, though, you can see from the road farm houses and other buildings, clustered closer than in other rural areas, which is characteristic of Amish settlements.

In town, Plain People in carriages rolled by now and then. Some female store clerks wore the small head coverings common among Mennonites. The Amish tourist attraction in Nappanee known as Amish Acres closed in late 2019, and a more upmarket property re-opened the next year — in an example of bad timing, though it seems to have survived — as The Barns at Nappanee, Home of Amish Acres. Maybe all those extra words are going to cost you more.

Across the street from Main Street Roasters (and not Amish Acres).Nappanee, Indiana

On Sunday, our first brief stop was at Magic Wand, home of the Magicburger, which can be found in Churubusco, Indiana.Magic Wand, Churubusco

We didn’t have a magic burger, but rather shared a strawberry milkshake to go. Among strawberry milkshakes, it was the real deal. The real tasty deal, straw-quaffed as we speed along U.S. 33.

Churubusco was a name I took an instant liking to. The town fathers apparently read in their newspapers about the battle of that name, and wanted the town to borrow a bit of its martial glory. According to some sources, it gets shortened in our time, and maybe for a long time, to Busco. I also noticed references to the place, on signs and the like, as Turtletown. Really? What was that about? I wondered.

The Beast of Busco, that’s what. Quite a story. A giant among turtles that the townsfolk never could quite capture. I haven’t had this much fun reading hyperlocal history — lore — since I chanced across a small lake in Wisconsin that is supposedly home to an underwater pyramid. Turtle Days was last month.

Another spot for a short visit on Sunday: Warsaw, Indiana. It’s the seat of Kosciusko County, with a handsome Second Empire courthouse rising in the town square.Kosciusko County Courthouse

Designed in the 1880s by Thomas J. Tolan, who died during construction, the Indiana Historical Society says. The project was completed by his son, Brentwood S. Tolan.Kosciusko County Courthouse

The square sports some other handsome buildings, too.Warsaw, Indiana Warsaw, Indiana Warsaw, Indiana

Warsaw is also home to a garden the likes of which I’d never imagined, and the reason I stopped in town, days after spotting it on Google Maps and then looking it up: the Warsaw Biblical Gardens.Warsaw Biblical Gardens Warsaw Biblical Gardens Warsaw Biblical Gardens

The brainchild of a local woman back in the 1980s with access to the land. “It would be no ordinary garden — not a rock garden, nor a rose garden, nor a perennial garden — it would be a truly unique and beautiful Biblical Garden,” the garden’s web site says.

“Actually, we say ‘gardens’ because the Warsaw Biblical Gardens has a variety of areas: the Forest, Brook, Meadow, Desert, Crop and Herb gardens; the Grape Arbor; and the Gathering site. Warsaw Biblical Gardens is ¾-acre in size, and there are very few gardens like this in the United States.

“The term ‘biblical’ refers mainly to the fact that the plants, trees, flowers, herbs, etc., are mentioned in the Old and/or New Testaments of the Bible. These have been carefully researched to preserve the integrity of the Gardens’ uniqueness.

“The Warsaw/Winona Lake area of Indiana has a long religious history. That history begins perhaps with the Chatauqua times of Winona Lake, now being revived. [Really?] Many other famous historical religious figures made their home’s here, from Homer Rodeheaver to Fanny Crosby to Billy Sunday.”

I won’t pretend I didn’t have to look up the first two of those three. Regardless, it’s a stunning little place.Warsaw Biblical Gardens Warsaw Biblical Gardens Warsaw Biblical Gardens

Go far — always good if you can manage it. But also go near.

Art Show at Naper Settlement

Parking in downtown Naperville on a sunny summer Sunday takes a little time, featuring as it does slow drives through a few full parking lots and passing by other lots that look full, while navigating the crooked grid of streets and keeping an eye out for a free flow of pedestrians.

I’ve been on worse parking treks. Before too long, we found a spot at Naperville Central High School, whose lot was open and no charge. To reach the riverwalk from there, you have to go around Naper Settlement, an open-air museum covering 12 acres and featuring historic buildings from the vicinity.

Unless you go into the museum, which we didn’t particularly want to, since we’d been there before. September of ’09, when we attended a pow-wow.

Then we found out that an art show was going on, with no admission to the grounds. So we popped in for a look-see.Naper Settlement Art Show Naper Settlement Art Show

“Since 1959, the Naperville Woman’s Club has presented a free art fair in the summer,” the Naper Settlement web site says. “The longest continuously running art fair in Illinois, this event brings a weekend of art and artistry to Naper Settlement in a free, fun, and family-friendly environment.” My italics.

Some nice work was for sale. We managed not to buy anything, remarkably enough.Naper Settlement Art Show Naper Settlement Art Show

In that first pic, he’s selling ceramic graters. Not something I would have thought of.

I was more interested in taking a look at the buildings, even though most of them were closed. The crown jewel of the museum, of course, is the handsome Martin Mitchell Mansion, which we toured those years ago. I didn’t remember much about Mitchell — just that he made money in bricks, many of which are evident in the house, and that his daughter was a dwarf who willed the property to the city.Naper Settlement Naper Settlement

The Daniels House.Naper Settlement

Hamilton C. Daniels (1820-97) doctored in 19th-century Naperville. Wonder whether, toward the end, old doc Daniels was still a miasma man or he came around to germ theory.

The Century Memorial Chapel.Naper Settlement

Formerly St. John’s Episcopal in Naperville, dating from 1864.

The museum also has some nice gardens.
Naper Settlement

Speaking of gardens, there was a special display of Victory Gardens. Boxes honoring the originals, anyway, and individual service members.Naper Settlement Victory Garden Boxes Naper Settlement Victory Garden Boxes

Something I learned from the signage: In 1943, seven million acres of Victory Gardens were planted, producing 40% of the nation’s fresh produce that year.

One more structure, though there are 30 all together on the grounds: the Murray Outhouse.
Naper Settlement outhouse

How many outhouses in the world are named? There have to be others, but there couldn’t be that many.

Mishawaka Walks

Worth noting: U.S. Grant was born 200 years ago today in Point Pleasant, Ohio. There hasn’t been a presidential birth bicentennial since Lincoln’s in early 2009, which came on the heels of Andrew Johnson’s in late 2008.

Later this year, there will be another one: Rutherford B. Hayes, born in Delaware, Ohio on October 4, 1822. One cold day in the mid-1990s, I dropped by the Hayes home museum in Fremont, Ohio, sparking an interest in presidential sites that hasn’t abated. Good old RBH. President most likely to be mistaken for Benjamin Harrison in a lineup. After his bicentennial, it won’t happen again till Chet Arthur has his day in 2029.

The St. Joseph River flows mostly westward through Michigan and into Lake Michigan, but it bends into Indiana at South Bend and its twin town, Mishawaka. Until recently I gave little thought to Mishawaka as a destination, but then I learned about its riverwalks. We arrived late in the morning on Sunday to sample one of them, the walk along the budding-verdant Kamm Island Park.

Downtown Mishawaka seemed fairly pleasant as well. It reminded me of some of the towns along the Fox River in Illinois — Aurora, say, or St. Charles, both of which hug a mid-sized river and consider it an amenity.

As well they should. Some views of Kamm Island Park.Kamm Island Park Kamm Island Park
Kamm Island Park

New development has come to the area. Not sure I’d want to live there, but I’d probably get a kick out of renting one of the units for a few days.Kamm Island Park

One curiosity on Kamm Island that I didn’t think to take pictures of: the fact that small, colorful figurines and other items, plastic and ceramic, stand at the base of many of its trees. No group is the same. A planned art project or spontaneous whimsy? Homage to elves or the work of elves?

Across the river at Kamm Island is Battell Park, the city’s oldest park, which has its own trail and some features not found elsewhere, namely a rock garden built by the WPA. This is the view of the lower level of the rock structure.Battell Park

After lunch, which consisted of takeout Chinese from a storefront near UI South Bend eaten at the picnic shelter of a windy park near the Potawatomi Zoo, we stopped at Battell Park for a look at the upper level of the rock garden. Water must flow through its channels some of the year, down to the river, but looks like it hasn’t started for the season quite yet. Still, it’s an impressive work.Battell Park

As much as I laud the CCC — whose works I keep encountering, some stunning — I have to put in a word for the WPA and its wide legacy too. I grew up with one of its finest projects — the San Antonio Riverwalk — as well as our high school stadium, which once upon a time had a plaque denoting it as a WPA project. This is an excellent site for browsing its projects, along with the rest of the visible New Deal.

Upstream a mile or so from Battell is Merrifield Park, also in Mishawaka. That was the last place we visited in town before heading home, because we wanted to see one of the park’s smaller features, Shiojiri Garden (Shiojiri Niwa), dedicated in 1987. Small but enchanting.

“This garden was a gift to the city of Mishawaka from its sister city, Shiojiri (Nagano Prefecture, Japan),” Atlas Obscura notes. “The designer was Shoji Kanaoka, the same man who planned the Japanese gardens at the Epcot Center in Florida. It features a multitude of trees and flowers, including a grove of cherry trees. There are also two snow lanterns, four bridges, and a teahouse pavilion built in the traditional Japanese style.”Shiojiri Niwa Shiojiri Niwa Shiojiri Niwa

Nice. You might call it a pocket Japanese garden, and Mishawaka — and the world — are better for it.

The Gardens at Lake Merritt

Not far from the Cathedral of Christ the Light in Oakland is Lakeside Park, the lake being Lake Merritt. The afternoon of October 28 was sunny and pleasant in Oakland. Actually a little warm; I should have brought some water.

Nice views of the city from the park.Lakeside Park, Oakland
Lakeside Park, Oakland

Paths to follow.Lakeside Park, Oakland

With wildlife to be found. Small examples, at least.
Lakeside Park, Oakland

This isn’t a gazebo. No. It’s a bandstand. Quite a bandstand.Lakeside Park, Oakland Lakeside Park, Oakland

A section of the park is given over to the Gardens at Lake Merritt.Gardens of Lake Merritt Gardens of Lake Merritt

“In the late 1950s, a coalition of garden clubs and plant societies developed and built the Oakland-East Bay Garden Center,” says Pacific Horticulture. “Upon completion, the building was donated to the City of Oakland with the understanding that the coalition would be able to use it in perpetuity for meetings and other activities. Later, the various groups took on the task of landscaping the seven-acre site.

“The gardens flourished for many years under the care of 16 city gardeners. However, by the late seventies and eighties, membership in many formal garden groups waned and, little by little, the city’s resources were directed elsewhere. Inevitably, many of the garden plots were neglected, and the appearance and appeal of the Gardens declined.

“With the vision and commitment of Victoria (Tora) Rocha, who was appointed Park Supervisor in 2010, and with renewed interest from garden groups and local residents, the Gardens at Lake Merritt are once again an interesting, enticing, and very attractive group of plantings.”

Sure enough. All sorts of gardens are part of the collection: bonsai, California riparian, Japanese, lily, Mediterranean, pollinator, rhododendron, sensory and urban edible gardens, along with a native bee hotel and native lawn.Gardens of Lake Merritt Gardens of Lake Merritt Gardens of Lake Merritt

The Japanese garden.
Gardens of Lake Merritt

I spent the most time in the nearby bonsai garden.Gardens of Lake Merritt Gardens of Lake Merritt (Bonsai)

A collection of more species than I would have expected, but that’s just my ignorance of things bonsai.

A Chinese elm.Gardens of Lake Merritt (Bonsai)

Ivy, gingko and olive.Gardens of Lake Merritt (Bonsai)

Sierra juniper.
Gardens of Lake Merritt (Bonsai)

Not all the botanic marvels of the park were in the designated gardens. Some striking trees could be found scattered through the park.Gardens of Lake Merritt (Bonsai)

Including the impressive whatever-it-is pictured above. A botanist, I’m not.