Corpus ’79

The sparse neighborhood cut off from the rest of Corpus Christi by I-37 at least offers a view of the new bridge, nearly complete, that will connect downtown with the North Beach district. New bridge in the foreground, existing through-type arch bridge in the background.Harbor Bridges, Corpus Christi

The new bridge has been in the works awhile, including a delay arising from firing FIGG Bridge Engineers from the project part way through. Another FIGG bridge had infamously collapsed in 2018, with the NTSB reporting that “the probable cause of the Florida International University (FIU) pedestrian bridge collapse was the load and capacity calculation errors made by FIGG Bridge Engineers.” Reportedly TexDOT in particular was leery of that company continuing on the Corpus bridge project.

The new bridge will be open by this summer, and soon after the old bridge (vintage 1959) will be demolished. For a narrow window, including January 2025, there are two bridges.

We got a good look at the old bridge from a different vantage.Harbor Bridges, Corpus Christi

In this case, the Texas State Aquarium is in the foreground. If I’d known that old bridge was coming down so soon, I’d have taken better pictures of it, including from the ground practically under it in North Beach. Never mind. Time flies, things change.

When was the last time I was in Corpus Christi anyway? A question of no importance to anyone else, and not even that much to me, but something I wondered about while visiting the city (January 16). It occurred to me after I returned home that I might have documentation to pinpoint it – the pages of the desk calendars I kept, starting my sophomore year in high school. I used it, as one would, to keep track of things I had to do for school, but I also made notes about social activities, of which there were a fair number. A speech tournament counted as both, and a travel opportunity to boot, even if it were only to other high school campuses in town.

So I checked: I went to a speech tournament at CC Ray (W.B. Ray HS) January 12-13, 1979, and at CC King (Richard King HS) February 16-17, 1979, so the latter is the answer to my question. I don’t ever remember attending a tourney at CC Miller (Roy Miller HS), where my mother graduated in 1943, when the school was simply Corpus Christi HS, the only one in town.

Early in my sophomore year in high school, I was considering joining the speech club, which mainly would mean debating, and in the fullness of time that’s what I did. I must have mentioned my deliberations to my English teacher, Bill Swinny, who also taught drama at Alamo Heights HS. I can picture him: not as old as I am now, but wrinkled with a slightly leathery face, probably from years under a South Texas sun; silver narrow rim glasses; and a full shock of white hair without a hint of youth.

“If you do debate, your learning is going to go like this,” he said, holding his hands near each other, as if he were about to clap, and then spreading them wide apart – a hell of an effective gesture, with the fact that I remember it after nearly 50 years proving the point. Guess Swinny, who had been on the stage professionally, had that actor’s instinct for gestures.

He was right and it wasn’t long before I realized it. But I probably would have joined debate without his encouragement. Debate meant Friday and Saturday trips to other high schools in San Antonio (I suppose we got all or part of Fridays out of class to go, at least when I didn’t have a football game to go to, and assuming good enough grades). Even better, it sometimes meant going to other cities: Austin, Houston, Dallas, Corpus, even as far as Midland, Texas.

Under the sort of loose supervision that was common in those days. People wax nostalgic for that sort of thing, and they’re right.

I remember traveling by student-filled bus all the way to Stevens Point, Wisconsin in August 1978 for a school club trip (not speech, math) and being completely free to set my schedule once I got there. One day I skipped a few of the organized events and took a long walk around Stevens Point, including a visit to a local church, St. Stanislaus – probably the first time I’d ever looked inside a church, just to see it – and wandering through a large greenbelt around a pond, with fragrant pines that made the place seem intoxicatingly far away. I came home a better person for that amble, and being trusted not to be a moron.

Like band, speech was a social occasion with other members of the club, away from school, away from our families and usual-suspect friends for a little while. It meant nights in motels and occasionally actual hotels, and meals in restaurants beyond our usually haunts – generally organized by the students themselves, such as the time in Corpus we had to put our heads together, in those pre-Internet days, to find and procure food from the known-by-reputation somehow Star Pizza. (Or maybe Starr Pizza, since there’s a street of that name in the city). It might have been middling pizza by later standards, but I’m sure it tasted better for the effort we put into it.

We speech club types were bright but mostly well behaved, and I don’t remember that the teachers ever regretted our loose supervision. There were minor amounts of unreported underage drinking (which I never liked much myself), but no one got too stupid from it, to the point of anyone’s parents having to collect them.

There was the time we sang a few parody songs in one of our hotel rooms. In Houston, maybe. Fairly mild stuff, even then. “Rock Around the Clock” became “Rock Around the Cross,” for instance, with lyrics that would have been offensive, and certainly ridiculous, to some older ears in Texas at that time; but no one else heard it. We might have been loud enough to be heard in the hall, but I doubt in any other rooms. None of us recorded it, either. No one would have thought of that.

That same hotel-room gathering, without any one older around, we talked about what we knew or had heard about some of the other teams from other schools, including opinions about who were the toughest opponents, and otherwise. I don’t remember any details. It would be demented if I did. But I know that that moment was both business and pleasure.

Speech was also an opportunity to meet fairly smart girls who were also exotic. By exotic I don’t mean anything like ethnic background, but rather that they went to other high schools. Even more exotic, other high schools in other cities.

There turned out to be a lot of nuance to that meeting girls thing, something adolescent boys are only dimly aware of. During that single trip to Midland for a speech tourney, I remember my debate partner and I went up against two female partners from who knows what school in an early round of what was called Standard Debate: one team affirmative, the other negative, each partner speaking in turn about whatever the subject was that year. Energy policy? It was the energy-crisis ’70s, after all.

The opposing teams sat across from each other at the front of a classroom, with the judge and any other spectators sitting where students normally would, though in early rounds you could expect few other people besides the judge. So the teams had a pretty good view of each other. One of the opposing girls spent a fair amount of time staring at me. Or so it seemed.

She was lovely. My kind of lovely, as it happened: dark hair, dark eyes, slightly olive complexion. Unusual for those days – an era of straight hair for girls – she sported a lot of curls. Also, she was dressed if not to the nines, pretty close, since nice clothes were mandatory for all debaters, and of course the girls tended to put a lot of effort into how they looked, while it was enough for boys to be in a suit and have taken a shower recently.

I don’t remember anything else about that debate, not even who won. After it was over, the girl debate team was gone in a disappointing flash. No time for small talk, as was sometimes the case.

In conversation not long after with some other (male) debaters, this particular team and its curly-headed debater came up. That’s what she does, I was told, stares at male debaters to distract them. So it was high school-level psyop.

I could have taken a misogynistic lesson from that, but I don’t think I did, and certainly don’t now. She was just using an advantage that was temporarily hers, and, since everyone else seemed to learn about it pretty quickly, probably not that effective. But it was memorable.

One more story: there was that other time that the faculty advisor of the speech club, a youngish woman (early 30s, perhaps) who was with us on a trip to Uvalde, apparently left us completely and went across the border with her boyfriend for an entertaining evening (or night?). The student president of our chapter of the National Forensic League, who did not like her – thought of her as ditzy, if I remember his phrasing right – got wind of that and narked her out to the administration. Soon we had a new advisor. Supervision might have been loose, but it wasn’t supposed to be nil. I don’t know whether there were any other negative professional repercussions for that teacher or not.

Well, maybe that time that was an example of a teacher regretting the loose supervision of a bunch of bright ’70s high school students.

The National Bobblehead Hall of Fame and Museum

You might say I had a vision recently.

A vision, but no mystic revelations. When I saw the Jesus bobbleheads in Milwaukee on the Friday after Christmas, I thought that a really good lyricist could do a follow up song to “Plastic Jesus,” which would be called “Bobblehead Jesus.” But I am not that person.

We’d dropped by the National Bobblehead Hall of Fame and Museum, where the bobbleheads crowd shelf after shelf after shelf: some 6,500 on display of the 10,000 figures the museum says it has.National Bobblehead Hall of Fame and Museum National Bobblehead Hall of Fame and Museum National Bobblehead Hall of Fame and Museum National Bobblehead Hall of Fame and Museum

But for Google Maps I might have missed National Bobblehead, which reminded me at once of the American Toby Jug Museum in Evanston. Still, there are some differences. Most of the tobies are behind glass, but not the bobbleheads, and most of the bobbleheads are sports figures, while the tobies have a wider variety of figures.

Like that other museum, National Bobblehead started with a single collection that morphed into something bigger – in this case, a bobblehead business for the two founders, Milwaukeeans Phil Sklar and Brad Novak. It isn’t enough that they collect them, though they still do, but they make them and sell them as well.

The museum asserts that Chinese nodding dolls had a vogue in Europe in the late 18th century, and that afterward various bobbly figures were made worldwide, with references to Germany and Russia and other places. These days sports figures dominate. Maybe three-quarters of the bobbleheads on display are sports figures, including both players and mascots.National Bobblehead Hall of Fame and Museum National Bobblehead Hall of Fame and Museum
National Bobblehead Hall of Fame and Museum

Their popularity in the sports world has been growing since their introduction in the early 1960s in baseball. The first player-specific bobbleheads formed quite a lineup: Roberto Clemente, Mickey Mantle, Roger Maris and Willie Mays.

Most of the others are entertainers and political or historic figures, as you’d expect.National Bobblehead Hall of Fame and Museum National Bobblehead Hall of Fame and Museum

More of him than I’d expect.National Bobblehead Hall of Fame and Museum

Can you really be a famous entertainer if you don’t have a bobblehead? National Bobblehead Hall of Fame and Museum National Bobblehead Hall of Fame and Museum National Bobblehead Hall of Fame and Museum

Near the gift shop – which sells bobbleheads, naturally – is a more than complete collection of U.S. presidents, in order, back-to-front, left-to-right, Washington to Biden.National Bobblehead Hall of Fame and Museum

More than complete because FDR is represented twice, once standing (with a cane) and the other in a wheelchair. Grover Cleveland is represented only once, however. Curiously, beginning with Herbert Hoover, all of the figures have their hands raised, as one does to a crowd. Before him, only TR does so, and he’s holding a top hat.

One more note: the museum occupies part of the second floor of one of the redeveloped Kramer International Foundry buildings in the Walker’s Point neighborhood of Milwaukee. That early 2000s project was an early one in the transformation of the neighborhood from industrial to retail and residential.

Milwaukee continues to surprise.

Mitchell Park Domes ’24

Since we went to Indiana just before Christmas, it only seemed logical (to me) to go to Wisconsin just after Christmas. Due to considerations I don’t need to detail, we chose to make it a day trip. Milwaukee is convenient that way.

We arrived at the Mitchell Park Domes late in the misty drizzly but not freezing morning of December 27. Not our first visit, but the last time was quite a while ago.Mitchell Park Domes Mitchell Park Domes Mitchell Park Domes

Didn’t remember this detail: An analemmatic sundial in the sidewalk near the entrance, the likes of which you don’t see often. But no sun.Mitchell Park Domes

Formally, the place is known as the Mitchell Park Horticultural Conservatory and, since the last time we were there, the fate of the Domes was the subject of a number of recommendations and other proposals. One proposal was to knock ’em down and replace them with something still undesigned, but which I suspect which would be more along the lines of immersive edu-tainment. Again, just a suspicion, but that would fit a pattern: destroy something distinctive to a particular place (in this case, Milwaukee) and put up something that could be anywhere, in the name of an enhanced guest experience that is interactive as a modest pinball arcade.

A few months ago, the county committed to spending some money on the Domes, including “a $30 million commitment from Milwaukee County once funding milestones are achieved,” according to Friends of the Domes, which unfortunately sounds like “when the county figures out how to get the money, this could take a while.” But at least the magnificent triad of domes isn’t going to be destroyed in a plan to merge it with the county’s Milwaukee Public Museum.

“Based on our review of the information we believe there could be a great guest experience which integrates the content and stories from Milwaukee Public Museum with the content and experience of the current Domes and Conservatory,”  a 2019 report by an outfit called Gallagher Museum Services notes. “Specifically, the natural history portion of the MPM storyline fits very nicely with the Domes experiences. From our analysis, GMS has concluded that the Milwaukee Domes should be demolished. The cost of properly renovating the Domes greatly outweighs the benefit of doing so…”

A far as I can tell as a non-Milwaukeean, the reaction to that was, “Outweighs the benefits? Says who?” Anecdotal evidence supports the preservationists. On the Friday after Christmas this year, when people have more time to go out, they were out in force at the Domes. Not obscenely crowded, but pretty busy. All ages. Many were families with small children. Children who will, if allowed, take their own children one day.Mitchell Park Domes Mitchell Park Domes

The GMS report makes it sound like the Domes themselves aren’t really part of the “Domes experience,” which really just involves an elaborate garden, as opposed to an elaborate garden in a distinctive, placemaking setting. The experience, the report seems to assert, is portable: take it out from under the Domes and you’d still have the “Domes experience” somehow in a spiffy new building.

People like the Domes. They already want to go there. The Domes are not the Milwaukee Public Museum, which is a fine institution in its own right, however one might shoehorn the “Domes experience” into a part of that museum that happens to be about nature. The “Domes experience” is only found at the domes, and the people of Milwaukee know that.

I believe that too. Just for the vaulting glass overhead, if nothing else.Mitchell Park Domes Mitchell Park Domes

The Domes hold their crowds pretty well, too. We were able to circulate comfortably and without any sort of jostling.

The tropical dome.Mitchell Park Domes Mitchell Park Domes Mitchell Park Domes Mitchell Park Domes

The arid dome.Mitchell Park Domes Mitchell Park Domes Mitchell Park Domes

The show dome.Mitchell Park Domes Mitchell Park Domes Mitchell Park Domes Mitchell Park Domes

Christmas was represented, of course, but also Advent, Winter Solstice, Hanukkah, and Kwanzaa.Mitchell Park Domes

As we did those years ago, we caught it during the holiday season show, and quite a show it is under the Domes.

Pretty Sure It Will Be Dry February As Well

Not only are we rid of January today, it was the most pleasant weather I can ever remember on a February 1 in northern Illinois: sun out sometimes, temps touching about 50 F.

YouTube algorithms are getting better at their game. Or so it seems. Today they suggested a Mexican ska band, Mexican Nutty Stompers, who have just released an album. The song, “Souvenir.” I was the 83rd listener.

Never mind the delight in finding Mexican ska when you didn’t such a thing existed, whoever the lead singer is, she’s got some voice. I might look into finding out her name, but for now the voice is more than enough.

A snippet from a press release that came a few weeks ago:

Embrace the spirit of Dry January with Hotel ZaZa Memorial City. Dine in at Hotel ZAZA’s Tipping Point Restaurant and Terrace and indulge in exclusive mocktail specials, crafted to make your taste buds dance without the spirits. Throughout the month of January, enjoy a selection of zero-proof concoctions, each priced at just $8.

Closer to my wheelhouse, but not quite in it. Still, I learned a couple of things from the release. One, Hotel ZaZa Memorial City is in Houston. Zaza is a collection of boutique hotels in Texas, in fact, with locations in Austin and Dallas too. I wasn’t familiar with the brand, but it looks posh all right. Also, this is the essence of the luxury hotel business: serving drinks at what would be a very reasonable price, if they contained any alcohol.

Dry January. I had to look around for more information on that, and it turned out to be a thing. Not sure if it’s just a thing of the chattering classes, or has stronger purchase on the steep slopes of American culture, but anyway you can find mainstream articles about it. Never heard of any of that. I’m late to the party, as usual. Or the non-party, considering no alcohol is served. As we all know, alcohol is essential to any fun party. That’s true in song and story.

The concept is simple enough to be a thing: Dry January just means not drinking alcohol during January, presumably timed to come after personal bacchanals in December. The hotel is using the concept to sell mocktails, but people do seem to use the idea to improve their lives. Good for them. I found it a little hard to imagine, though. Every January is Dry January for me.

I did order, and drink, an Old Fashioned at the bar of the Nashville Italian restaurant where we had dinner on the last full night with my friends in November. We were waiting for a table, so we all sat at the bar, enjoying some lively conversation with each other.

We also spent a few minutes watching the bartender, a nattily dressed slip of an African-American young man, maybe 30, who seemed to be everywhere behind the bar doing everything all the time, but mostly assembling the various liquors for his cocktail creations. With an economy and grace to his movements that spoke of years of practice. He was an artist.

So I wanted to order something from him. But what? As I later explained to my friends, a little part of every man wants to be Don Draper, so the drink in front of me was my homage to the character, and a vehicle to provide a nice tip for the bartender.

A little more than 12 years before ordering the Old Fashioned in Nashville, I ordered one in Appleton, Wisconsin on a press trip because I recently heard of the drink on Mad Men and was curious.

But mixed drinks haven’t been how I’ve usually spent my money over the years. All those years later in Nashville, I nursed my Old Fashioned a while – I’m not a hard-drinking TV character, after all – and concluded that I hadn’t had a bar cocktail between those two times, only occasional beer and wine, most of which wasn’t at bars anyway. What’s the term for that? Not teetotaler. Quasi-totaler?

Back to the AGSL

The Plymouth Church wasn’t actually the last place I visited for Doors Open, it was the last place I planned to visit. But the event still had an hour to run when I walked out of that church on Saturday, so I checked the map and discovered I was within walking distance of the American Geographic Society Library on the UW-Milwaukee campus, which is usually open only Monday to Friday.

Home to 2 million or so items: maps, atlases, photographs, monographs, serials, digital geospatial data and of course globes. Many, many globes.American Geographical Society Library American Geographical Society Library

A divers collection.American Geographical Society Library American Geographical Society Library American Geographical Society Library

Maps on display.American Geographical Society Library American Geographical Society Library American Geographical Society Library

This wasn’t my first visit, though it had been about five years, and I hope not my last. Maps are useful, but also their own reward.

Plymouth Church, Milwaukee

Tucked away on a side street northeast of downtown Milwaukee, and not far from Lake Michigan to the east and the University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee to the west, is Plymouth Church. I arrived there on Saturday afternoon as the last place on my Doors Open visit.Plymouth Church, Milwaukee Plymouth Church, Milwaukee

It is United Church of Christ, one of whose confessional predecessors were New England Congregationalists. Puritans and Separatists, if you go back far enough.

“Alexander Eschweiler, who designed many prominent houses and buildings throughout Milwaukee, served as the architect of the original building,” notes Historic Milwaukee. “His design harkened back to an older pastoral age, replicating the image of an old English church. The beautiful sanctuary is notable for its nine Tiffany windows.”

Plymouth Church, Milwaukee Plymouth Church, Milwaukee

Maybe eight. A volunteer at the church entrance – a little old church lady (really) – told me that one of the windows was unsigned. It sure enough looks like a Tiffany, but without the lettering, you can only be 99.44% or some other high percentage sure of its pedigree.Plymouth Church, Milwaukee

I spent a good while looking at the windows, dedicated more than a century ago to a number of early congregants.Plymouth Church, Milwaukee Plymouth Church, Milwaukee

Long looks are highly recommended.Plymouth Church, Milwaukee Plymouth Church, Milwaukee

Toward the front entrance. At that moment, the afternoon sun obscured the church’s rose window, which rises over the choir balcony.Plymouth Church, Milwaukee

Obscured unless you got up close. Then it is a thing of wonder.Plymouth Church, Milwaukee Plymouth Church, Milwaukee Plymouth Church, Milwaukee

The window was installed in 1917. Let Bobby Tanzilo, writing in OnMilwaukee, take it from here: “ ‘The window, a large Tiffany art glass, was presented to the church by Mrs. C. W. Noyes in honor of her mother, Marcia Wells, wife of Daniel Wells, who built the Wells Building and for whom Wells Street was named,’ wrote the Sentinel in June 1917.

“The window represents an angel figure bestowing the benediction of peace. This is the seventh memorial window in Plymouth Church.”

1917. How many of the congregation prayed ardently for Peace that upheaval year? For the American men headed for war? For Victory? All in a single breath?

Tanzilo also discusses the artist who did the rose window, and quite possibly the other windows, while working for Tiffany: Clara Burd (d. 1933). That despite the fact that Tiffany didn’t name the artists that worked on its projects.

“Clara Burd was – along with others including Agnes Northrop who designed the 1917 Hartwell Memorial Window that’s at Art Institute of Chicago, Clara Driscoll and others – one of the so-called ‘Tiffany Girls,’ talented women responsible for designing stunning works of art in glass (not only windows, but also lamps and other objects),” Tanzilo wrote.

She did a lot else besides. Such as book illustrations. “The Returning Prodigal” (1911).

The full article is worth a read, and has a full set of pictures of the windows of the church.

Calvary Cemetery, Milwaukee

Head west on Bluemound Road in Milwaukee – once an Indian trace, later an early paved road – and before long you arrive at Calvary Cemetery. The entrance is easy to spot, though my shot is from inside.Calvary Cemetery, Milwaukee

It’s Milwaukee’s oldest Catholic cemetery, counting as a rural cemetery, as it was outside the young city in the 1850s. About 80,000 people repose there these days, including the first mayor of Milwaukee, Solomon Juneau.

I didn’t see his grave. But there were a lot of others, varying in style, age, condition and carved sentiment. The ground has contour and the trees are mature. Everything you need for a picturesque cemetery.Calvary Cemetery, Milwaukee Calvary Cemetery, Milwaukee Calvary Cemetery, Milwaukee

Including some sizable art and a handful of mausoleums.Calvary Cemetery, Milwaukee Calvary Cemetery, Milwaukee

That’s the stone of the Jung family, early Milwaukee brewers. What was it Jung said about beer being the royal road to the unconscious? No, that was that other Milwaukee brewer, Ziggy Freud. I believe they were rivals.Calvary Cemetery, Milwaukee Calvary Cemetery, Milwaukee

A good number of priests are buried at Calvary, including some fairly recent internments, such as this long row of Jesuits.Calvary Cemetery, Milwaukee Calvary Cemetery, Milwaukee

More Jesuits. A wall of Jesuits, with room for a few more.Calvary Cemetery, Milwaukee

The cemetery was unusually busy for a cemetery, because it was on the Doors Open Milwaukee list. Not for the grounds or stones, but for the chapel atop the fittingly named Chapel Hill.Calvary Cemetery, Milwaukee Calvary Cemetery, Milwaukee Calvary Cemetery, Milwaukee

“This cream brick Romanesque style chapel was designed by architect Erhard Brielmaier and built in 1899,” says Historic Milwaukee. “A noted designer of Catholic churches around the country, Brielmaier also designed the famous St. Josaphat on the city’s south side, under construction at the same time. The chapel is located on one of the highest elevations in the city with impressive views of Story Hill, Miller Park and the downtown skyline.”

A nonprofit, the Friends of Calvary Cemetery, is overseeing the long and expensive restoration of the chapel. Some decades ago, the Archdiocese had planned to tear it down, but fortunately preservationists prevailed. Members of the Friends showed visitors around the inside on Saturday. We had to sign a waver in case a piece of it fell on us.Calvary Cemetery, Milwaukee Calvary Cemetery, Milwaukee

The crypt was dark and crypt-like.Calvary Cemetery, Milwaukee Calvary Cemetery, Milwaukee

“Originally built intended for services, prayers, private contemplation, and as a mausoleum for clergy, only one clergy member was ever buried at the site,” Historic Milwaukee continues. “The structure has two levels: the upper level features the chapel, with its raised sanctuary and high altar, side altars recessed in twin apses, lofty vaulted ceilings, soaring arches and central dome; the lower level is the bi-level mausoleum containing 45 crypts. Reposing directly beneath the main altar is the body of Reverend Idziego Tarasiewicza, interred in 1903.”

Why just him? The authoritative answer seems to be, dunno. Go figure.

Hope Lutheran Church & The Carpenter Mansion

I went on Saturday to see a church, Hope Lutheran, west of downtown Milwaukee, but I also got a good look at its attached building, the Carpenter Mansion. It’s an unusual Siamese twin-like pairing of structures.Carpenter House, Milwaukee Carpenter House, Milwaukee

The Carpenter House came first, built in the 1890s as a home for the founder of a thriving commercial bakery and his large family. These days, it’s a little long in the tooth, though a nonprofit is overseeing its restoration, a slow process. Still, handsome cream city brick, artfully put together.

“The gorgeous cream city brick Queen Anne house is a stunner outside even now, with its broad arches squaring off the entry porch – which also has some striking, stumpy and bulbous Romanesque columns – the elegant chimney, the decorative carved panels – including one under another arch, this one a second-story window – and the remains of a turret on the southeast corner of the home, which is perched atop a small hill,” writes Bobby Tanzilo in On Milwaukee.

The newer Hope Lutheran has its charms, too, such as a well-kept exterior.Hope Lutheran Church, Milwaukee Hope Lutheran Church, Milwaukee

The church ceiling evokes the ribs of an upside-down boat, like an impromptu meeting place for members of the early church. In that, and its elegant and simple lines, Hope Lutheran reminded me of St. Paul’s Episcopal in San Antonio, though the structure is even more pronounced in the Texas church.Hope Lutheran Church, Milwaukee Hope Lutheran Church, Milwaukee

Also like St. Paul’s, a fine array of stained glass windows.Hope Lutheran Church, Milwaukee Hope Lutheran Church, Milwaukee Hope Lutheran Church, Milwaukee

How often is the Serpent seen in this medium? Not sure how often. Note the nick in the fruit of the tree of knowledge.Hope Lutheran Church, Milwaukee

The church and the house are connected via a small room. The church bought the house long ago, and most of the first floor is church offices. The upper floors are closed for the ongoing restoration.Carpenter House, Milwaukee

I took an interest in the fireplaces.Carpenter House, Milwaukee Carpenter House, Milwaukee

Artful in their way as the stained glass.

Doors Open Milwaukee 2023: A Nondescript Warehouse, Home to an Enormous Theater Organ

A summerish weekend as the fall equinox came and went. That made Saturday a good day for Doors Open Milwaukee.Doors Open Milwaukee

The main event on Sunday was planting the enormous number of tulip bulbs that Yuriko acquired at a yard sale recently for a small price. If half or a quarter or even a tenth produce blooms next spring, there will be a nice display.

How would one start, and profit from, a virtual tulip bubble? Just wondering. Sillier things have happened in our time.

This was the sixth Doors Open for me. Yuriko didn’t feel like it this year, so it was a solo shot up to Milwaukee and back for me. When I was reading about possible sights at Historic Milwaukee’s web site, I came across one for Carma Laboratories, maker of lip balm Carmex.

“The 40,000 square foot building was built by Carma Laboratories approximately thirteen years ago specifically to function as a warehouse and distribution center,” Historic Milwaukee said. “The style of the building is a generic contemporary warehouse made of concrete.”

Well, fine. Why should I go there? Next paragraph:

“Carma Laboratories, the manufacturer of Carmex Lip Balm, is home to the world’s largest theater pipe organ, [which is] housed in its distribution center. The organ contains 6,000 pipes, a concert grand Steinway Piano, numerous percussion instruments and a set of handbells all playable from the organ console.”

Really? Rarely has such a bland opening paragraph been followed by such a wowzer. I knew I had to see that. It was my first stop Saturday morning.

Ordinary exterior indeed.Carma Laboratories

It’s one building in a district of suburban offices and distribution centers in Franklin, Wisconsin, which is south of Milwaukee proper.

Inside.Carma Laboratories organ Carma Laboratories organ

The organ is the vast enthusiasm – hobby is hardly the word – of the president of the company, Paul Woelbing, who was on hand to tell visitors about the organ, which has been under construction by the Century Organ Co. for years and isn’t quite finished even now. But enough to belt out a rousing version of the main theme from Star Wars (1977), which was playing when I walked in the door.

“When Woelbing and his late father, Donald, were inspecting a vacant warehouse for the expansion of Carma Labs, the acoustics of the cavernous building gave him some inspiration,” says the American Theatre Organ Society. “Woebling, a collector of paintings, old Harleys, and self-playing musical instruments, naturally thought of a pipe organ for the space.”Carma Laboratories organ Carma Laboratories organ

Woelbing at the console, programing the instrument ready for another piece, but I forget what. Carma Laboratories organ Carma Laboratories organ

Not Toccata and Fugue in D minor, though I’m sure that played at some point during the day. Still, the piece that did play was equally rousing, seeming to fill the space from top to bottom. Theater organs aren’t an enthusiasm of mine particularly, but I know a powerful instrument when I hear one.

This recorded concert from this summer gives some idea of its power and range, but not quite like being there.

The sound is one thing, but I’d say the icing on the cake is the location. We’ve all heard organs of various sorts in various places — including a few theaters — but in an obscure warehouse in an obscure corner of the Midwest? Sweet icing indeed.

The organ’s many parts occupy only part of the warehouse. The rest is exactly that – warehouse space, which was roped off to us casual visitors on Saturday.Carma Laboratories organ

“The nucleus of the instrument is the 3/15 Wurlitzer organ that was originally installed in Chicago’s Nortown Theatre,” says ATOS. “Denver organ enthusiast Dr. Bruce Belshaw purchased the organ in the 1950s and installed it in his home, before it made the current move to the Franklin, Wisconsin warehouse.

“With many additions, the now 90-rank instrument has extensive tonal colors. The organ has been used for annual company holiday parties, and Woebling’s desire is to share the instrument and music with the community.”

The Peshtigo Fire Museum & Fire Cemetery

You can drive from Sault Ste. Marie to metro Chicago in a day. It would be a long day, maybe eight or nine hours depending on traffic, construction, etc., but you can do it. I decided against such a long day, breaking the trip roughly in half by spending the last night of the drive around Lake Superior – which I was leaving far behind by this point – in Marinette, Wisconsin.

One reason: so I could enjoy a leisurely drive through the UP, including westward on Michigan 28 and then south on National Forest 13 through Hiawatha National Forest.

These are roads unlikely to make it on conventional best-drive lists, except for one that I might compile myself according to idiosyncratic lights, which might also include the Icefields Parkway, Lake Shore Drive, Alamo Heights Blvd., North Carolina 12 on Hatteras and Ocracoke islands, among others that come to mind. That the UP has two such favorite roads says something about the car-commercial driving to be had in the mostly forested UP.

Light enough traffic, at least on National Forest 13, that you can stand on the center line and take pictures at your leisure.

Another thing about NF 13: It took me to Pete’s Lake once upon a few times, and again on August 5, though I didn’t camp this time or experience a thunderstorm or yahoos yelling in the distance. It remains a sentimental favorite spot.National Forest 13

On the morning of August 6, I finally headed home, with one more stop in mind: Peshtigo, Wisconsin, a place that demonstrates, if nothing else, that the human mind is a creature of habit.

That includes me. I only mentioned the town in passing in 2006, when we stopped at the Peshtigo Fire Museum.Peshtigo Fire Museum Peshtigo Fire Museum

The building is a former Congregational church, on the site of a Catholic church that burned down in the firestorm of 1871 – which remains the deadliest wildfire in U.S. history, according to the National Fire Protection Association. Remarkably, the Maui wildfire is, for now, placed at fifth; modernity can’t protect us from everything.

“On the night of October 8, 1871, in Peshtigo, a lumber town about seven miles southwest of the Michigan-Wisconsin border, hundreds of people died: burned by fire, suffocating from smoke, or drowning or succumbing to hypothermia while trying to shelter in the Peshtigo River,” notes USA Today.

“But the fire also raged across Oconto and Marinette counties into Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, while another blaze burned across the bay of Green Bay in Brown, Door, and Kewaunee counties.”

No one knows exactly how many people perished in the Peshtigo fire — I’ve seen varying estimates, all in the low thousands — but it was certainly more than in the Great Chicago Fire, which happened the same day. Which one is mostly remembered? Chicago, of course, thus illustrating a habit of mind. Once a thing enters the tapestry of the popular imagination, it can crowd out similar events.

Peshtigo isn’t a large museum, but it is full of stuff.Peshtigo Fire Museum

The museum includes much information and a few artifacts from the fire, though naturally not much survived. The fire itself is illustrated not by photography, but artwork.Peshtigo Fire Museum

Two volunteer docents were on hand to spread the word about the fire. It’s the only distinction for modern Peshtigo, pop. 3,400 or so. One was a woman about my age, the other a woman about Ann’s age. Again, good to see young’ins up on their local history.

Speaking of that, the museum is actually more local history than the single incident of the fire, as important as that is. As such, there are many artifacts from the entire spectrum of the town’s history (including in the basement).Peshtigo Fire Museum Peshtigo Fire Museum Peshtigo Fire Museum Peshtigo Fire Museum

Next to the museum is the Peshtigo Fire Cemetery.Peshtigo Fire Cemetery Peshtigo Fire Cemetery Peshtigo Fire Cemetery

Including survivors of the fire.Peshtigo Fire Cemetery

Along with many who did not.Peshtigo Fire Cemetery Peshtigo Fire Cemetery

Too grim a note to end on. Not far south of Peshtigo is a roadside plaque I’d seen before, but not photographed.45th parallel Wisconsin 45th parallel Wisconsin

“The most obsessive of all of 45th Parallel markers are the plaque-on-rocks sponsored by Frank E. Noyes,” says Roadside America. “We know that he sponsored them because he put his name on every one.

“Frank was 82 years old, a faithful Episcopalian and 32nd degree Mason, and president, general manager, and editor of The Daily Eagle, a Wisconsin newspaper founded by his dad. For reasons lost to time, he became fixated on the intangible world of latitude in 1938 and put up plaques around his home town of Marinette to mark the halfway line.”

There are other such signs, of course, not of Frank Noyes origin, such as at the Montana-Wyoming border, as seen in 2005.

Except for bathroom and gas breaks, the Wisconsin 45th parallel proved to be the last stop of the nearly 2,000 miles around the lake.