Burlington, Wisconsin: Liar Liar

If, in downtown Burlington, Wisconsin – not a very large place, since the entire town’s population is about 11,000 – you pay attention to your surroundings, you’ll start noticing plaques.Burlington, Wis Liar's Club Plaque Burlington, Wis Liar's Club Plaque Burlington, Wis Liar's Club Plaque

They honor winners of a contest put on at the end of every year by the Burlington Liar’s Club. I’ve read that the contest is for tellers of tall tales, submitted by entrants nationwide, but looking at this list of winners, I’d say only some of them count as “tall tales,” along the lines of a watermelon vine dragging a boy in its wake.

The rest are jokes. In the 1978 example, pretty much like one Johnny Carson would have told.

Newspapermen of nearly 100 years ago made up the Burlington Liar’s Club, but the thing achieved a life of its own, quickly evolving into the overseer of a not-very-serious contest with entrants from around the nation. No doubt the contest is unique in the nation, like the Nenana Ice Classic or the Sopchoppy Worm Gruntin’ Festival.

“The club started in 1929 as a joke,” the club website says. “A Burlington newspaper reporter wrote a story to the effect that these ‘old timers’ got together each New Year’s day at the police station, and lied for the championship of the city…

“… city editors, with an eye for interesting features, ‘put it on the wire,’ and the following December the Associated Press and other news agencies began phoning Burlington to find out if the city’s annual contest would be repeated…

“Letters began to trickle in from the four corners of the country commenting on the ‘contest.’ They furnished the inspiration for a real contest instead of a phony one, national in scope, and the Burlington Liar’s Club was formed to carry it on.”

Just the kind of thing to notice during a small-town walkabout. I was delighted. Who isn’t fond of the oddities in Wisconsin? The fiberglass fields and pyramids and Forevertrons.

One Sunday late in June, I took Ann to the southern Wisconsin camp she where is working as a counselor for the summer, and after I dropped her off, spent a little time looking around Burlington and environs.

The small downtown of Burlington, which at this point in history counts as exurban Milwaukee, is a handsome place, with most of its storefronts occupied.Burlington, Wis Burlington, Wis

That is, some handsome old buildings with modern tenants.Burlington, Wis Burlington, Wis

Nothing like a sturdy pre-FDIC bank building. Completed in 1909; that makes it pre-Fed as well.Bank of Burlington, Wis Bank of Burlington, Wis Bank of Burlington, Wis

I couldn’t not look it up. The Bank of Burlington in Wisconsin existed in various forms since the mid-19th century; it was prospering in 1916, according to this article from that year, posted by AccessGeneaolgy. A bank in some form or other was in the building until 2021, which Chase closed its office there. That hints that Chase was the last of a string of banks swallowing other banks in the 20th and 21st centuries.

Also: C.B. McCanna. That would be Charles B. McCanna (d. 1913), who organized the McCanna Cheese and Butter Manufacturing Co., and operated about 20 factories in the area. He was also president of the Bank of Burlington in his later years.

“In 1893, the company was reorganized as McCanna and Fraser, with McCanna serving as president until his death,” says the Wisconsin Historical Society. “In 1898 he founded the Wisconsin Condensed Milk Co., which soon became one of the largest producers of condensed milk in Wisconsin and operated branch factories in Pecatonica and Grayslake, Ill.”

You’ve heard of Wisconsin beer barons. Here we have a cheese baron.

I enjoy the old-fashioned approach of a 1916 article about McCanna, another article accessible via Access Genealogy. Of course, it wasn’t old-fashioned at the time, just standard practice in lauding business men:

“Dairying and the industries which are allied thereto have ever constituted an important source of the wealth and prosperity of Racine County, and among the most enterprising and progressive business men of the district are those who have turned to that line of labor as a source of their business development. One of the well known, successful and highly respected representatives of the business in Racine County was Charles B. McCanna, who became an influential citizen of Burlington and one whose activities constituted not only a source of individual success but also constituted one of the strong elements in the advancement of public prosperity.”

Strike

On Friday, we walked the dog just ahead of sunset. It had been an overcast day, warm and humid, but not too bad. The clouds didn’t look particularly threatening at that moment, either for rain or wind or a possible thunderstorm.

After we returned, I went out to our deck to enjoy the twilight and to read a book I’d just started, A Need to Testify by Iris Origo (1984), which is composed of biographical sketches of four brave anti-fascists – you’d have to be brave – in Fascist Italy. It seemed like a good thing to read after I’d re-read Homage to Catalonia, which seemed like a good thing to re-read after many years, and after visiting Catalonia.

The deck has a broad view off to the south. As dusk settled in on Friday, I noticed cloud-to-cloud lightning far off to the southwest. Blue and white lighting up the gray clouds. So far away that I heard no thunder, and not close enough for me to head inside. Not yet, anyway. Still, it’s good to take lightning seriously. Drops of rain started to fall, but not many. Enough to splash the book. I parked myself under the house’s awning and kept reading in that dry spot. My glasses, which I’d left on cast-iron table on the deck, started collecting droplets.

For 10 or 15 minutes, it got darker but the rain got no heavier. There wasn’t much wind, if any. I looked up from my book and noticed the lightning to the southwest was now a lot closer. Time to go inside, I thought, and I collected my glasses and my book and pretty soon I’d settled on the couch in the living room to carry on reading. Soon I heard heavy rain but still not much wind, and scattered thunder off in the distance.

The rain grew heavier and the thunder grew louder and then BOOM! That meant close by lightning. Very close. BOOM! BOOM! Somewhere in the neighborhood, I figured. Not unusual at all. Happens a few times a year. The rain continued and I continued reading. Our power was still on and I hadn’t heard anything hit the roof, so I wasn’t worried. Before long, in no more than a half hour, the thunder and rain had slacked off.

Late that evening, when all was quiet outside, Ann let the dog out into the back yard, and then came to me and said, “You should look outside. The table’s knocked over.”

What? Really?

There it was – our cast-iron table, flipped nearly upside down, about eight or nine feet from where it usually is (I measured later) and four feet from the door but not blocking it, with the deck umbrella thrust toward the ground near where we keep our blue recycle bin.

Wind did that? I wondered. What wind? I didn’t hear any wind during the storm. How was it I didn’t hear the table crashing to the other side of the deck?

Considering that it was dark, and still wet on the deck, and the hour was latish – about 11 by this time – I left the task of moving the table back until the morning. Also, I wanted to take a few pictures.deck 7/15/2023

The table is on the right, of course. To the left is a heavy base in which we put the umbrella pole. So the table and umbrella flew in tandem from that point to where they came to rest, leaving the base behind.deck 7/15/2023

If not for the deck umbrella, I think the table would have gone further, and maybe flipped all the way over. In any case, the table, which is cast-iron and weighs maybe 100 pounds, has never been moved by wind from its spot on the deck in the 20 years we’ve lived here, though occasionally the umbrella has been lifted away, and sometimes ahead of wind I move the table to be flush with the house’s wall. I know that the table could fly, of course, in the event of a tornado, say. Or maybe a focused micro-burst? A really focused micro-burst?

I checked for other damage in the area. Luckily, I found none. The deck was OK (though it’s old). The roof looked OK, which was a relief, since it isn’t that old. The back yard fences were still standing, as they have in much worse wind after I re-enforced them this spring. There weren’t even any branches on the ground in either the back or front yards.

How precise was that micro-burst anyway? And could it properly be called a micro-burst? A nano-burst maybe?

For a few minutes, that took me on a digression. I knew that pico-, femto- and atto- are smaller than nano-, in that order getting smaller, so I wondered about the whimsical coinage of pico-burst or femto-burst or atto-burst. How much force would those smaller winds involve? Not much, I imagine. A femto-burst might be what, a fart?

I looked up the metric prefixes and found out that recently – last year – the General Conference on Weights and Measures (Conférence générale des poids et mesures, CGPM), which defines measurement standards internationally, added four more prefixes to the SI.

Two smaller: ronto and quecto, 10 to the minus 27th power and 10 to the minus 30th, respectively. Two larger: ronna and quetta, 10 to the 27th power and 10 to the 30th, respectively.

Just for reference: 10 to the 30th power is

1,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000.

Just for grins, because who could use a number that large or that small? Scientists and engineers, apparently, which makes me marvel that the frontiers of science and engineering involve measurements of that inconceivable kind.

For comparison: “A convenient unit of length for measuring nuclear sizes is the femtometre (fm), which equals [10 to the -15th power] metre,” Britannica says.

“The diameter of a nucleus depends on the number of particles it contains and ranges from about 4 fm for a light nucleus such as carbon to 15 fm for a heavy nucleus such as lead.”

Back to the Bastille Day incident on my deck. I moved the table and umbrella back to their usual positions on Saturday morning. The table wasn’t scratched or mangled in any way. The canvass umbrella was a little dirty, but undamaged. I could fold and unfold it. (It had been folded during the incident.)

I took a short nap on Saturday afternoon, and when I woke, the first thing I thought was lightning.

There wasn’t the kind of wind needed to hoist the table; or at least, I didn’t hear it, and I probably would have. There was no audio or video running in the living room during the storm. A lightning strike, on the other hand, could move a table. But would it do so without causing other damage? Without burn marks somewhere? Without knocking out the house’s electrical system? There weren’t even any flickers.

Still, the case for lightning was strong. A strike certainly could have the energy to move the table. It would also account for the fact that I didn’t hear the table move. No one in the house did. That measly noise would have been drowned out by the thundering BOOM!

I took a closer look at the umbrella. Fairly faint marks I took for dirt at first didn’t rub off, even with a little water. They were burn marks.deck 7/15/2023 deck 7/15/2023

So lightning had hit the umbrella pole, which is also iron, and blasted the whole setup generally eastward. Parallel to the door, wall and a window. As lightning strikes go, it must have been low powered. Or was it? If you’d asked me before, I’d have thought the umbrella pole wasn’t much of a target, since our much larger honey locus tree lords over the deck and pole. Guess that was a faulty assumption. Or is it? Lightning had never struck the deck in 20 years; or the tree either.

Whatever the imponderables of the strike, we got off easy. No damage, no fire, no electrical disruption.

I’d been sitting at the table maybe 30 minutes before, but I don’t count the strike as a near miss in terms of bodily harm. Three minutes before or 30 seconds before, maybe, but the rain and the exact prospect of lightning had driven me in well before the strike.

The incident will change my behavior on one point, however. That umbrella, which is only up during the warm months, is coming down ahead of thunderstorms, if I can manage it.

Forest Lawn Memorial Park, Glendale, California

Not long ago, I refreshed my memory about what a hilly cemetery can look like.Dayton, Ohio Dayton, Ohio

Those are images of the Woodland Cemetery & Arboretum in Dayton, Ohio. Been a while since I was there (2016), but it’s still a favorite of mine.

I thought about Woodland and some of the other park-like cemeteries of the nation while on the slopes of Forest Lawn Memorial Park in Glendale, California last month. The Forest Lawn slopes are arrayed with stones flush to the ground, to facilitate lawn care.Forest Lawn, Glendale Forest Lawn, Glendale

Such beauty in its hills and landscape – and such a missed opportunity for a beautiful cemetery. There are spots of beauty, but still. Flush stones, with their numbing sameness, don’t enhance a hill the way a wide variety of standing stones do. Not at all. Not only that, traces of individuality are regularly removed, as a crew is doing in the second picture above.

Even so, Forest Lawn is an interesting place. For one thing, it’s the cemetery that inspired Evelyn Waugh to produce The Loved One, his sharp satire of the American way of death, or maybe just the California way of death. I read the book about 35 years ago, I think, and don’t remember much. I saw the awful movie based on it at some point, and am glad I don’t remember much about it except, vaguely, Jonathan Winters hamming it up, as he usually did.

Looking at the trailer, I realize now how solid the cast is. I’m surprised how much talent went to waste in that movie.

“When Evelyn Waugh came to Hollywood in 1947 to discuss the film rights for Brideshead Revisited, he visited a graveyard: Forest Lawn Memorial Park,” notes Crisis Magazine. “He had heard it praised as a place unsurpassed in beauty, taste, and sensitivity; a place where ‘faith and consolation, religion and art had been brought to their highest possible association.’ But Mr. Waugh found the cemetery dripping with saccharine sentimentality, edged with macabre memorials, and repellent with cuteness.”

I don’t know about all that; I might have a higher tolerance for sentimentality or the macabre or even cuteness than the author, though I have to say that Forest Lawn doesn’t really trade in the macabre, unless you consider cemeteries by definition macabre, which I do not. If anything, it could use just a touch of macabre to tone its memorial-park lightness down a notch.

The park is expansive, its map full of named places: Inspiration Slope, Garden of Ascension, Haven of Peace, Memory Slope, Triumphant Faith Gardens, Gardens of Remembrance, Columbarium of the Christus, Court of David, Court of Freedom, Garden of Honor, Garden of Everlasting Peace, Garden of the Mystery of Life, Gardens of Contemplation, Dawn of Tomorrow Wall Crypts, Vale of Faith, Resurrection Slope, Rest Haven, Graceland, Vesperland, Slumberland, Lullabyland and Babyland, among others.Forest Lawn, Glendale Forest Lawn, Glendale

One thing not on the map is any mention of any of the movie stars buried in the cemetery, or any hint about where they might be. There are many. That’s an odd lacuna, I think, considering this is southern California and that Hollywood Forever makes a point of highlighting the famous, and does it so well with a detailed map.

A handful of famed names appeared on Google Maps at specific points in the cemetery, including Humphrey Bogart. I wasn’t far away, so I went looking for him. I wanted to pay my respects to Bogart. (I’ve seen his hand- and footprints, too.)

Soon I determined that Bogie’s ashes are behind this door to the Columbarium of Eternal Light.Forest Lawn, Glendale Forest Lawn, Glendale

A locked door. No casual admission to see one of the great actors of his time. Or Bacall, who joined him not so long ago. “Golden Key of Memory”?

I had to content myself with stones and niches of random folk.Forest Lawn, Glendale Forest Lawn, Glendale

There’s also an art museum on the grounds, which was closed when I visited, so I had to content myself with some of the freestanding public art on the grounds. There’s quite a bit of that.

A version of the Christus.Forest Lawn, Glendale Forest Lawn, Glendale

The Court of Freedom, which has a patriotic theme, is ringed with artwork. Such as the Declaration of Independence mural.Forest Lawn, Glendale Forest Lawn, Glendale

George Washington.Forest Lawn, Glendale

The chain in front of him tells a story I’d never heard.Forest Lawn, Glendale

A version of “The Republic” by Daniel Chester French.Forest Lawn Glendale

I don’t count the statue of Washington as a presidential site for this trip, but there was one at the cemetery I did see: the Wee Kirk o’ the Heather, a lovely spot.Forest Lawn Glendale
Forest Lawn Glendale Forest Lawn Glendale Forest Lawn Glendale

Couples are frequently married at the Wee Kirk, as you’d image. In early 1940, Ronald Reagan and Jane Wyman were married there.

Wednesday Winds

Angry clouds passed by this evening. It had rained on and off all day, rain we certainly needed, and early in the evening we got treated to a heavy downpour and the sound of sirens for a few minutes. As for as official warnings, this:

The National Weather Service in Chicago has issued a

* Tornado Warning for…

Northeastern DuPage County in northeastern Illinois…

Northwestern Cook County in northeastern Illinois…

* Until 715 PM CDT.

* At 651 PM CDT, severe thunderstorms capable of producing a tornado

were located along a line extending from Schaumburg to Glendale

Heights, moving east at 30 mph.

And a NWS warning in Spanish buzzed on my phone. By 7:15, the sun was out again, shining on a drenched landscape. We’d gotten a lot of rain, but not a bit of wind. Guess that blew parallel to us.

Then: “The National Weather Service said a tornado touched down near Chicago’s O’Hare International Airport on Wednesday following warnings of severe weather for the city. A confirmed tornado was on the ground around 7 p.m., according to the National Weather Service in Chicago,” ABC News reported.

“ ‘This tornado has been touching the ground intermittently so far and is moving east. There are additional circulations along the line south of O’Hare. Seek shelter if in the warned area,’ ” the ABC article said.

“Many tornadoes have struck in the Chicago metropolitan area, and several have hit within the city limits of Chicago, according to the weather service…” ABC concluded (a spot of background or historical context: I know this kind of conclusion well, having written many).

“The deadliest formed in Palos Hills in Cook County on April 21, 1967. The twister traveled 16 miles (26 kilometers) through Oak Lawn and the south side of Chicago, killing 33 people, injuring 500 and causing more than $50 million in damage.”

Another report (NBC News) mentioned a large tornado this evening near Summit, Illinois, which is a lot further away than O’Hare.

So the threat of high winds seems to have passed, at least at my spot on the Earth. But there’s always another day.

A few more thunderstorms are forecast for the near future, but mostly it’s cerulean days ahead.

Or will that be azure days?

The Getty Center

This is the city. Los Angeles, California.Los Angeles 2023

I don’t work there. I’m not a cop. I do visit from time to time, including early June, when found my way to the Getty Center, a complex perched on a high hill in the Santa Monica Mountains that provides some expansive SoCal vistas.Los Angeles 2023 Los Angeles 2023 Los Angeles 2023 Los Angeles 2023

The 1.8 million or so visitors to the Getty Center every year thus experience something oilman John Paul Getty never did: these views, unless he hiked in the area, which from the little I know about him seems out of character. The Getty Center didn’t exist until well after his death (1976), developed by the Getty Trust and not opened until 1997.

The Getty is one of two branches of the J. Paul Getty Museum; the other is the Getty Villa, which impressed me mightily in early 2020. As a design by Richard Meier, the Getty is a triumph of pale blocks.The Getty 2023 The Getty 2023 The Getty 2023 The Getty 2023

Water features.The Getty 2023 The Getty 2023

And flora.The Getty 2023 The Getty 2023

One likable feature of the museum is that you can loaf on its lawns.the Getty 2023 the Getty 2023

“The Getty Center… houses European paintings, drawings, sculpture, illuminated manuscripts, decorative arts, and photography from its beginnings to the present, gathered internationally,” the museum web site says, in one of four buildings named for compass points: North, South, East, West.

Here’s a museum policy other places would do well to emulate: “The Open Content Program makes high-resolution images of public domain artwork from the Getty collections freely available, without restrictions, to advance the research, teaching, and practice of art and art history.”

I wasn’t particularly systematic as I wandered through the galleries. Go here, look at that; marvel at that other work. Rest on a bench (the Getty has some). Repeat. See things both familiar and strange by artists centuries past their lifespans. Sometimes I’m inspired to take my own pics at an art museum, including not just the art, but museumgoers.the Getty 2023 the Getty 2023 the Getty 2023

Then I was inspired to take some artwork images.the Getty 2023

Just a few. Soon I found my theme.the Getty 2023 the Getty 2023 the Getty 2023

What better than images of Christ in the City of Angels?

Venice Beach

Caught a bit of an advertisement for a large funeral home chain on YouTube the other day. Guess the algorithm is aware that, statistically speaking, I’m closer to the end of my life than the beginning, no matter what. That’s not so strange, but it took me a moment to realize that the ad was referring to funerals – you know, the thing the company is selling – because it didn’t use that word, but said it would behoove me to prepare for my “celebration of life.”

How did that conversation go?

“No, no, take the word funeral out of the script.”

“But aren’t you selling pre-need funerals?”

“Sure, but you can’t use that word. It’ll remind people of death.”

Are we so squeamish about death? Sometimes I think so, and probably we are compared to – say – people living in the 19th century or pretty much any century before that. Still, I’m not sure potential funeral home customers would be that upset to hear about funerals.

Be that as it may, I’m still alive and looking for paths to travel. And I mean literal paths, such as the one that leads from the canals of Venice (in California) to the beach at Venice. It wasn’t a long path.Venice, California Venice, California

The path leads to a much longer one, two paths actually, that parallel the beach: one for pedestrians, the other for bicyclists.Venice Beach, California

Walk far enough to the north, toward Santa Monica, and you come across tennis courts, basketball courts, a skatepark and of course, Muscle Beach, whose equipment was fenced in. Not too many weightlifters were around, but then again, the entire area was only modestly crowded. I think overcast skies and 60-degree F. temps are just right for walking or otherwise moving along the ocean, but many people don’t seem to share that feeling.

Some do.Venice Beach, California

A raft of businesses, most catering to tourists and other visitors, face the beach.Venice Beach, California Venice Beach, California Venice Beach, California

Santa Monica Pier, visible in the distance (I didn’t make it again), is elaborate with shops and cafes and an amusement park and an aquarium.

Venice Pier is simple.Venice Beach, California

People were fishing from the pier. It offers a nice view of the wide beach, too.Venice Beach, California

Plus a look at some surfers. They weren’t deterred by the cool air or, for that matter, the chilly water.Venice Beach, California

Everything I know about surfing is second hand, mostly from unreliable sources. At one time, for instance, I heard that surfing was mighty wild and getting bigger every day, from Hawaii to the shores of Peru.

So I decided to spend a little while watching the surfers, to see what I could learn. Mostly I saw them ride the wave.Venice Beach, California Venice Beach, California

And then fall down.Venice Beach, California

Guess that makes surfing a metaphor for life. You’re riding along for a moment and then – down you go. Get up and it happens again.

Dublin, Barcelona, Then Venice

After a mostly dry June here in northern Illinois, early July saw some rain, but not quite enough to end the dry spell. Out beyond the grass and gardens of the suburbs, it’s a “stressful time for corn and soybeans.”

June 25, mid-day, at a cornfield in southern Wisconsin, which is suffering a drought as well. Moderate drought for the county that includes this field, at least as of the end of June.

The field looked healthy to my untrained eye, but for all I know that’s what a stressed crop looks like a few weeks into a drought. I might be up that way again next weekend or the next, and I’ll stop by for a look at the same field if so.

I had the opportunity to spend most of a weekend in Los Angeles in early June, so naturally I did. To visit some of the places that I considered but didn’t have time for in pre-pandemic 2020, because that’s how I think, though I didn’t make it to La Brea Tar Pits this time or earlier. Like the Cloisters on the other coast, it’s a place that still eludes me.

On the other hand, I made a point of going to the Los Angeles neighborhood of Venice this time.

Though named for the place in Italy,  Venice has a distinctly American history, invented as it was ex nihilo by a real estate developer looking to reference the Old World in the newest part of the New World, namely California. Not just any developer, but one Abbot Kinney, whose career was circuitous and strange, the way business men could be in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Not only that, the arc of history in Venice is very much American: an initial flowering, subsequent decline, much demolition and disfigurement in the name of modernization, years of scraping along the bottom, an effort to save its meager remnants, gentrification and insane property values – all within the span of about a century, specifically within the 20th, though spilling into the 21st. Which is an affluent time for Venice of America.Venice, California 2023

“When it opened on July 4, 1905, Venice of America boasted seven distinct canals arranged in an irregular grid pattern, as seen… in Kinney’s master plan for the community,” KCET says. “Totaling nearly two miles and dredged out of former saltwater marshlands, the canals encircled four islands, including the tiny triangular United States Island. The widest of them, appropriately named Grand Canal, terminated at a large saltwater lagoon. Three of the smaller canals referred to celestial bodies: Aldebaran, Venus, and Altair.

“Soon, a second set of canals appeared just south of Kinney’s. Linking up with the existing network through the Grand Canal, these Short Line canals (named after the interurban Venice Short Line) were apparently built to capitalize on the success of Kinney’s development. Their origins are uncertain, but work started soon after Venice of America’s 1905 grand opening, and by 1910 real estate promoters Strong & Dickinson and Robert Marsh were selling lots in what they named the Venice Canal Subdivision. Built almost as an afterthought, these six watercourses are the only Venice canals that survive today.”

The rest, the originals in their irregular grid and with their celestial names, were long ago filled in and paved over – that would be the demolition and disfigurement.

I arrived in the neighborhood fairly early in the morning, early enough – I realized later – to park on Venice Blvd. within walking distance of both the canals and the beach, which is more difficult later in the day. Venice Blvd., near the ocean at least, also happens to be the locus of a handful of residents living in parked RVs and, for those who can’t swing that, tents in the boulevard median.

The canals form a neighborhood unlike any I’ve seen and, I have to say, flat-out gorgeous in our time.Venice California 2023 Venice California 2023 Venice California 2023 Venice California 2023

Public sidewalks run between front yards and the canals, with occasional footbridges crossing the canals. This arrangement, I’ve read, is the result of renovation that occurred in the early 1990s. The only vehicular street running through the neighborhood is Dell Ave., which connects with alleys behind the houses with the wide expanse of LA streets. The way residents drive in and out of the area, that is.Venice California 2023 Venice California 2023

The yards are lush, at least they were in June. Temps weren’t that warm the day I visited, and the skies fully overcast and sometimes drizzly, since southern California seems to be in some kind of weird weather bubble these days. Made for a good walking environment, though.Venice California 2023 Venice California 2023 Venice California 2023 Venice California 2023

Hard to believe the area spent much of the 20th century as a slum; a quick look at Zillow’s estimates puts no property along the canals at much less than $2 million, and many a good deal more, with a scattering of new houses under way as well. Such is real estate across the decades.

Barcelona Scraps

One of these days, we might have a string of holidays and quasi-holidays from Juneteenth to July 4, the warm equivalent of Christmas to New Year’s Day. Anyway, back on July 9 or so.

Not as much smoke today, though it is still an air pollution action day, according to the NWS. Curious term. You’d think it would be an inaction day, at least as far as outdoors activity is concerned.

Barcelona city trucks. Specifically, neteja (cleaning).Barcelona cleaning truck Barcelona cleaning truck

The Temple d’August, which is tucked away on a narrow street in the Gothic Quarter. Barcelona

The only Roman ruins we saw on the trip. Toyed with the idea of going to Tarragona to visit its extensive ruins, but that didn’t happen.

“The uniform columns of the Temple of Augustus inside are 9 metres tall and comprise an imposing relic of one of the temples from Barcelona’s Forum, which stood on a corner site at the rear,” Visit Barcelona says. “The temple was built in the 1st century BC and, as its name suggests, it was dedicated to the worship of Emperor Augustus…. The temple was reconstructed by the architect Puig i Cadafalch in the early 20th century.”

La Rambla, near one end. The end near the ocean.La Rambla

Columbus still looks out to sea at that point, as he has done since 1888. Monument a Colom, the maps call it, and efforts to take it down have been unsuccessful so far.La Rambla

There was also a lot of construction in the area, with blocked off sections. I can’t see a sign like that in Spain and not be reminded of no pasarán!

The context is just a little different in this case, however. “Do not pass,” the dictionaries tell me, as opposed the more emphatic will not pass!

I expected to see fast food in Barcelona, but Five Guys was nevertheless a surprise, across the street from Sagrada Familia. Five Guys’ web site tells me that there are currently seven locations in the city, and 28 in Spain all together, with 13 of those in greater Madrid.Barcelona Five Guys

Model of Jesus’ head, on display in the small museum in the basement of Sagrada Família.Sagrada Familia

Cava sangria.

“This variation of sangria called Sangria de Cava in Spanish is made with the sparkling wine Cava, which can be white or rosé,” says Allrecipes. “The name Cava is a protected designation of origin in the European Union, which means that only sparkling wine produced in certain areas of Spain may be sold under that name. To make Cava Sangria, you can use another sparkling white wine instead. The rest of the ingredients is pretty similar to sangria. Cava Sangria often includes orange liqueur.”

Stickers on a wall in Barcelona. A common thing to see. No Buc-ee’s sticker. Not yet.

I took a picture of someone taking a picture of seemingly uninterested musicians, in Parc de la Ciutadella.Barcelona

Sometimes you’d see the independence flag. Not that often, however. The latest effort at independence fizzled, after all.Catalonia flag

Near Palau Güell, you can find the Gaudi Supermercat, Art Gaudi Souvenirs, and the Hotel Gaudi.Barcelona Barcelona 2023 Barcelona 2023

Not everything in the area had Gaudi’s name slapped on it. If we’d been hungry, we might have bought kebabs from this fellow.Barcelona 2023

Elsewhere, more Barcelona flowers.Barcelona 2023 Barcelona 2023

Finally, manhole covers. Like Dublin, Barcelona had some good manhole covers.Barcelona manhole cover 2023 Barcelona manhole cover 2023 Barcelona manhole cover 2023 Barcelona manhole cover 2023

Which is tapa de clavegueram in Catalan, at least according to automated online translation. Now you know.

Those Lazy, Hazy, Crazy Days of Summer. Especially Hazy.

Tuesday should have been a fine summer day, but it turned out to be our turn. For Canadian smoke, that is. I had a busy day at the word-processing table and didn’t notice anything besides increasing overcast skies as the day progressed. By late afternoon, I saw how strange the overcast was. Like light fog near the ground, but much thicker fog skyward.

When I went out at about 6 p.m., I thought I smelled a hint of wood smoke, but later, around 8 p.m., I couldn’t smell anything, and Yuriko couldn’t either. Acclimated by that time? Maybe.

From the NWS:

From 11:19 AM (CDT), June 27, until 12:00 AM (CDT), June 29

…AIR QUALITY ALERT IN EFFECT UNTIL MIDNIGHT CDT WEDNESDAY NIGHT…

The Illinois Environmental Protection Agency forecasts Unhealthy (U) for fine particulate matter for the Chicago Metropolitan and Rockford regions on Tuesday June 27th. In addition, the Agency forecasts Unhealthy for Sensitive Groups (USG) for fine particulate matter statewide for Wednesday June 28th. Smoke from wildfires in Canada is moving into the region, pushing air quality into the unhealthy or worse categories.

Because of my work, I have unlimited access to three major East Coast newspapers (NYT, WSJ and the Washington Post), so last night I checked them all. You might remember early in June when New York and environs was blanketed with Canadian smoke. That was a BIG NATIONAL STORY! When it happens to Chicago and environs? Of regional interest, way down the page, to go with the heat wave currently gripping Texas.

Today wasn’t as smoky as yesterday, though a light haze lingered. No distinct smell either. Could be that the smoke was worse in the city. Do cities capture smoke, or at least delay its movement more than suburbs? Could be.

It’s been a strange month for weather anyway. Early this month in Los Angeles (more about which later, maybe) instead of balmy summer days, it was in the 60s and misty most of the time. Las Vegas was very warm during the day, but not the blazing heat I expected. Back in northern Illinois, we had a run of about three days cool enough to be April or October in mid-June, and for the entire month, there hasn’t been much rain.

Ramon, I Hardly Knew You

Going to a place like Spain reminded me of how ignorant I am of a place like Spain. How is it I knew little to nothing – except maybe the name, and that he was a painter – about Ramon Casas before I encountered his work up on Montserrat?

Which speaks of another spot of ignorance. I knew there was an art museum as part of the Montserrat complex, but I didn’t know anything about it. When I found out that our combination ticket included admission to the museum as well as the basilica and Our Lady of Montserrat, I figured we’d find a good collection of medieval art reflecting religious themes, as medieval art tends to do.

I was wrong. The Museum of Montserrat does indeed display some medieval works, but only in the first rooms, as well as a collection of varying images of Our Lady of Montserrat, plus Byzantine and Slavic icons. But there is also pre-Christian ancient artwork, and European paintings and sculpture from every century after the Middle Ages petered out, including the 21st. All together, about 1,300 pieces.

Less surprising is its large collection of Catalan art, and in one of those rooms I made the acquaintance of Casas. I could hardly miss him. Here’s a detail from the first painting I saw of his, “Madeleine” (1892).Ramon Casas

Wow. The museum has this to say (mechanically translated) about its Casas collection: “More than twenty works by Ramon Casas (1866-1932) are preserved in Montserrat… His works convey the atmosphere of Paris, with portraits in interiors where Casas focuses on the detail in the female figure, immersing the viewer in the actions and attitudes of the characters. On the other hand, they also reflect the painter’s taste for the folklore of the time, with ladies wearing mantellines, combs, shawls, and where bull races are frequent….”

I decided to take a few more detail shots of Casas’ work. In order: “La cigarreta” (1906), “La religiosa” (ca. 1920), and “Júlia” and “Cordovesa,” both undated.Ramon Casas Ramon Casas Ramon Casas Ramon Casas

More specifically, I wanted images of his female faces, of which he seems to capture their essential allure.