50 Riel, Cambodia

Text from a recent fortune cookie: What does the future hodl?

I can overlook the typo. We’ve all done those. But is it right for fortune cookies to ask questions, rather than offer fortune-cookie wisdom?

Besides, the answer to that particular question is simple enough: death. Sooner or later, probably one at a time for all of us humans, but possibly all going together when we go, every Hottentot and every Eskimo, though I suppose that should be revised to Khoikhoi and Inuit and Yupik.

I heard about Dwayne Hickman this morning, and my reaction was, he was still alive? The Many Loves of Dobie Gillis had its charms, and the episodes that I’ve seen tended to be funny. As for Bob Saget, my reaction was, sorry to hear about a 65-year-old passing suddenly, but the episodes I’ve seen of Full House were not funny. What happened to sitcoms in the ’80s anyway?

The other day, I hauled out my envelope of cheap banknotes for a look, as I sometimes do. We might be on the way to excising banknotes from our lives in this country — a great mistake, if so — but I take some comfort in thinking that they will linger quite a while longer in parts of the world not so hep on digital infrastructure.

A nice-looking note, if a little orange.50 riel, Cambodia

50 riel, Cambodia

Cambodia, 2002. 50 riel. Still valid currency, with this note worth about 1.25 U.S. cents these days.

Here’s info from wiki to make the hairs stand up on the back of your neck: “There have been two distinct riel, the first issued between 1953 and May 1975. Between 1975 and 1980, the country had no monetary system.”

On the note’s obverse is Banteay Srei, a 10th-century Cambodian temple and relic of the Khmer Empire. The reverse has a dam on it, likely supposed to be a symbol of modern progress.

Looking into the history of the temple, I came across an oddity.

“It was 1923 when [Andre] Malraux, then 22, arrived in Cambodia with his wife Clara,” journalist Poppy McPherson writes in a publication called The Diplomat. “Newly broke Parisian intellectuals, they had a scheme to steal statues from the Angkor temples to sell in the West. It failed, and they were both arrested in December of that year. The legal wrangle that ensued, ending in a one-year suspended sentence for Malraux and nothing for his wife, meant he spent more than a year stuck in Phnom Penh and, later, Saigon.”

Icy Weekend

Just when the sidewalks were mostly clear of ice, along (on Saturday) comes freezing drizzle. Just after dark that day, Ann and a friend wanted to pick up a pizza, always a good goal, but I suggested that I drive, since I have a fair amount of experience with icy conditions.

The driving went as expected, a bit slick on the small roads, better traction on the larger ones. The first pizza joint we went to — which offers industrial pies for a fixed price (higher than it was last time, some moons ago) — was completely lighted but locked up. Odd for a Saturday night, but maybe that’s the labor shortage for you. Not actually a labor shortage, I suspect, but a wage shortage. Pay more and those workers will mysteriously reappear.

Would I be willing to pay even more for the pizzas as a result? Maybe. Then again, it’s completely mediocre pizza, best modified with additional toppings at home, to make it slightly better mediocre pizza. So maybe not.

We went to a more expensive place afterward. High mediocre, I’d say. It was open, but a sign at the door managed expectations by saying the place was short-handed, and the order did take longer than usual. I waited in the car while the girls waited inside, and I saw a parade of people come and go. Whatever the labor situation, the demand for high-mediocre pizza is certainly still there.

I saw another customer take a fall on the ice. She was walking in full view of me, and suddenly she wasn’t. But she got up and carried on, seemingly young and uninjured.

When we got home, I tested the surface just outside my car door. No traction at all. So I had Ann and her friend take the food in, and then spread the salt I keep outside, next to the front door, around the car to facilitate me getting into the house without a slip. I made it.

The sun was out today but temps weren’t warm enough to melt to ice, so I was out spreading more salt around. Now there’s traction, but even so, it was slow going taking the trash out this evening. But now it’s out and I’m inside, determined to stay a while.

First Thursday of the Year Musings

Little wind today, which made the outdoors marginally better to experience. But not much. Tonight will be really cold, an illustration of the superiority of the Fahrenheit scale for everyday use, with 0 degrees being really cold and 100 degrees really hot.

I can’t remember exactly when I read it, but years ago there was an item in Mad magazine lampooning the midcentury notion — the quaint notion, as it turned out — that Americans were going to have a surfeit of leisure time in the future, including a vast expansion of the number of holidays. Millard Fillmore’s birthday was a suggested holiday.

Well, that’s tomorrow, and I have to work. That idea about leisure time didn’t pan out anyway. But I will acknowledge the 13th president’s birthday, because why not. Besides, I paid my respects to President Fillmore in person recently.

Today’s also a good day to acknowledge the expansion, ever so slow, of the public domain, eking out growth despite the rapacious efforts of certain media oligopolists whose mascot is a rodent. Works published in 1926 are now in the public domain.

I’m happy to report that The Sun Also Rises is one of those works, to cite one of the better-known novels of 1926. I could have quoted it previously, and in fact I have, relying on notions of fair use. Now all the words are freely available, no questions asked.

“Here’s a taxidermist’s,” Bill said. “Want to buy anything? Nice stuffed dog?”

“Come on,” I said. “You’re pie-eyed.”

“Pretty nice stuffed dogs,” Bill said. “Certainly brighten up your flat.”

“Come on.”

“Just one stuffed dog. I can take ’em or leave ’em alone. But listen, Jake. Just one stuffed dog.”

“Come on.”

“Mean everything in the world to you after you bought it. Simple exchange of values. You give them money. They give you a stuffed dog.”

“We’ll get one on the way back.”

“All right. Have it your own way. Road to hell paved with unbought stuffed dogs. Not my fault.”

Speaking of life between the wars…

If that song doesn’t make you smile, what will?

Scopes Don’t Match

Temps not much higher than 10 degrees F. this afternoon, but not only that, wind gusts to drive home the point that it’s early January, with relief a long time coming. This is the back yard wind chime, moving and clattering.wind chimes. Jan 5, 2022

Clattering because it’s a wooden wind chime, which I acquired as an omiyagi, a gift-souvenir from a trip for someone at home, in San Diego way back in 1999. It is intensely weathered, and the strings holding the chimes have broken and been replaced more than I can count. In fact, a fourth clime needs to be rehung even now, but I haven’t gotten around to it.

The new year isn’t very far along, but the bots are back to annoying me. I have in my possession a gift card — it was gift — from a major retailer. I went online to check the balance. I’m absolutely sure I put in the numbers correctly (but whited out in my screen grab), and I get this.

Scopes don’t match. What the hell does that mean? Was any human being involved at any point in determining that that would be a response to a customer? If so, was it a software engineer who didn’t give a moment’s thought to the fact that no one but software engineers know that term? Or is it random term never originated by the mind of a human?

In logic, I have read, a “scope” is “the range of a logical operator: a string in predicate calculus that is governed by a quantifier,” which really doesn’t clear up things.

That was all the time I needed to spend thinking about this nonsense. I called the 800 number and found out the balance without further ado.

Stillman Park

Stillman Park in South Barrington, Illinois, has a few features that sound like they were borrowed from Beatrix Potter: Rabbit Hill, Cattail Marsh, Owl Loop and Goldfinch Trail. It also has an unnamed parking lot, but at least it’s off Penny Road.

We arrived for a walk on Boxing Day afternoon — as far as we got from home over the holidays, which wasn’t far at all. Conditions were still dry and not that cold, which made for a good walk.

There were trails to follow.Stillman Park in South Barrington
Stillman Park in South Barrington
Stillman Park in South Barrington

Places to pass through (or by).Stillman Park in South Barrington
Stillman Park in South Barrington
Stillman Park in South Barrington

We toyed with the idea of further destinations this year, but cold rain and warm inertia persuaded us otherwise.

Holidays

Christmas and New Year’s Day came and went pleasantly, a pause in paying attention to the rest of the world except maybe for weather reports. And I did hear that Betty White died, not an hour after I saw her face on a magazine in a drug store rack, noting her upcoming 100th birthday. RIP, Betty.

A bit of Christmas morning. A few hours later, a zoom with other family members in Texas.

Christmas dinner was nearly the same, in foodstuff prepared for the table, as Thanksgiving, except no beans and instead a large salad. Toward the New Year, Yuriko prepared osechi ryori, as every year. Homemade dishes need not be as elaborate as in this article, but they are put in a three-tiered box, and ours are just as delicious as any prepared by a store.

Mostly pleasant December weather gave way at the end of the month to snow and then heavy snow for New Year’s Day, but nothing blizzard-like. Nothing to interrupt traffic for long, though I expect not that many people were out on Saturday or Sunday anyway. We didn’t go anywhere either, but we did shovel, since today brought a return to workweeks.

Manhattan Decked Out for Christmas

Regards for Christmas and New Year’s Day and all the days around them and in between. Back to posting around January 3.

One reason to go to New York City in December is to admire the seasonal lights and decorations, and that’s what I did. Starting with the impressive Christmas tree on the street in front of the New York Stock Exchange.Manhattan Christmastime

Fearless Girl is there now, and she still has her admirers.Manhattan Christmastime

On Broadway just up from Bowling Green, the Charging Bull bronze still stands, and there’s a sizable tree nearby as well. For some reason, there was also an Kazakhstan flag flying.Manhattan Christmastime

I saw the giant Rockefeller Center tree, though the madding and maddening crowd put me out of the mood to take pictures. For the record, the 2021 tree is a 79-foot Norway Spruce, 46 feet wide and weighing 12 tons, according to the center, with about 50,000 LED lights and a 900-lb. Swarovski star with 70 spikes on top.

You might call the tree shape at Radio City Music Hall a bit of deco decoration.Manhattan Christmastime Manhattan Christmastime

No Christmas show inside.Manhattan Christmastime

Another gorgeous light display in the area was on the wall of Saks, facing Fifth Avenue. The crowds were quite attentive as it shifted and blinked.

Back downtown, Zuccotti Park.Manhattan Christmastime

The lights of Trinity Center, overlooking Zuccotti.Manhattan Christmastime

From there, I went to the World Trade Center complex. Not especially decked out for the holidays, but I caught the buildings at a good time in terms of lighting.Manhattan Christmastime Manhattan Christmastime

St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church and National Shrine, still under construction.Manhattan Christmastime Manhattan Christmastime

It’s a replacement structure, designed by Santiago Calatrava, for a church of the same name and denomination on the site that was destroyed by the Twin Towers collapse. The new church will also be a memorial honoring those who died in the attack.

The Oculus‘ interior is blue for the holidays. At least it was when I stepped in for a few moments. A lot of other people were taking a look as well.Manhattan Christmastime Oculus

Wandering the streets of Manhattan, I saw a lot of smaller decorations, such as this restaurant annex on 51st.Manhattan Christmastime

Fire house lights, same street.Manhattan Christmastime

Bongs in the window.Manhattan Christmastime

Not Christmasy, but colorful all the same. This head shop near the Oculus — are they even called that any more? — is no doubt taking advantage of the legalization of cannabis in New York State this year, though retail sales haven’t started yet. For what it’s worth, I noticed the smell of cannabis on the streets of the city a lot more this time than ever before. And for that matter, less urine smell, which I suppose is a function of the hypergentrification of Manhattan.

Over in the Meatpacking District, angular snowfolk occupy a small plaza.Manhattan Christmastime

The angular building facing that little plaza.Manhattan Christmastime

After visiting Little Island, Geof and I had lunch at a Mexican restaurant on the first floor of the building.Manhattan Christmastime

I had the Mexican French toast.Mexican French Toast

I’d never heard of that before. Created for the table of Maximilian I? Man, it was good.

Not far away, on 14th Street, is Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe en San Bernardo, a parish church formed by the merger of two congregations in the early 2000s. Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe en San Bernardo
Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe en San Bernardo

An 1870s building designed by the amazingly prolific Patrick C. Keely. Wonderfully colorful interior, hardly shown in my picture.Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe en San Bernardo

A good place to spend a few Christmastime minutes.

Little Island

We arrived footsore at Little Island late on Saturday morning. Or at least my feet were a little sore and warmer than usual, since Geof walks a good deal more than I do, and faster as well. Along the greenway on the Hudson that morning, he modulated his pace, partly because he wanted to see certain things himself, but also to accommodate my slower gait — but not too slow. I can still walk three miles without serious difficulty.Little Island NYC

Little Island is in fact an island, an artificial one built on the ruins of Pier 55 (in full, the place’s name is Little Island @Pier 55). Even before Hurricane Sandy slapped the pier, it was in poor shape, and the blow brought complete ruin. Redevelopment took years, as it does in Manhattan sometimes, with one plan sinking into a legal quagmire.

A second plan finally came to fruition with the opening of Little Island, managed by a nonprofit, in the spring of this year.Little Island NYC Little Island NYC

We entered at the south entrance bridge.Little Island NYC

The 132 concrete structures supporting the park are called “tulips,” and I guess that’s a reasonable description. Tint them green and they could form the supports for Marvin the Martian’s summer home, but in any case, they’re big and heavy: each weighing as much as 68 tons and measuring from 16 feet to 52 feet high.Little Island NYC

The British architectural firm Heatherwick Studio (designers of the Tower of Silence in India) and the New York-based landscape architecture firm MNLA collaborated on designing Little Island. I’ve read, and Geof confirmed to me — he has made a good many visits or at least walk-bys of the park this year — that the place is a hit. During the warmer months, you have to register for a specific time to get in, though at no charge. This time of the year, you can just wander in.

Good to hear that a new public space is popular with the public. I can understand that. Even in winter, it’s a pleasant place to wander around. Little Island NYC Little Island NYC
Little Island NYC

It’s lush too, at least this mild December.Little Island NYC Little Island NYC Little Island NYC

With views of the city. In the foreground is the construction site on another old pier, which will be an extension of the Whitney Museum. Little Island NYC
Little Island NYC

I took these to be homages to The Time Tunnel.Little Island NYC Little Island NYC

I might be one of the few to think of that, since you have to be of a certain age to do so, besides mildly eccentric.

William Street

Less famous than Wall Street and a bit longer, William Street snakes through non-grid Lower Manhattan, another faint echo of New Amsterdam. I didn’t walk the entire way during my recent visit, but did cover a fair amount of the street, starting at the back of the fortress-like Federal Reserve Bank of New York.NY Fed 2021
NY Fed 2021

Beneath my feet, roughly, more than 6,000 tons of gold, more than even old Croesus himself could imagine. Above street level, a building that evokes Florentine palaces, though larger even than a Medici could imagine. Designed by a NY firm that did a lot of bank buildings, York and Sawyer.

A block away is Fosun Plaza, which surrounds the 60-story 28 Liberty Street, formerly One Chase Manhattan Plaza, a midcentury creation. The plaza is a story above street level, accessible by a wide staircase. The first thing you see on the plaza is a Jean Dubuffet sculpture, “Group of Four Trees,” commissioned by David Rockefeller and completed in 1972. Almost instantly, it reminded me of “Monument With Standing Beast” in Chicago.Fosun Plaza, NYC

Deeper in the plaza is an Isamu Noguchi rock garden fountain, back down at street level and naturally dry this time of year.Isamu Noguchi rock garden fountain,

“Windswept” came to mind when I was at the plaza, the adjective that’s often attached to such midcentury artificial flats, even though there wasn’t that much wind. Still, the plaza offered some good views of surrounding buildings, such as 84 William Street, the Howell apartments. In front of the Howell (from this vantage) is a small park featuring steel sculptures by Louise Nevelson.William Street 2021

A wonderful old office building at 62 William Street, dating from 1900.William Street 2021

Down at street level at that building, a Greek restaurant that didn’t survive the pandemic. Or simply didn’t survive.William Street 2021

From that vantage, there’s also a good view of the non-Wall Street side of 40 Wall Street.William Street 2021

At William and Pine streets, one of two churches I was able to visit this time in NYC, Our Lady of Victory. I popped in for a few minutes to enjoy the sacred-space quiet.Our Lady of Victory, William Street 2021 Our Lady of Victory, William Street 2021 Our Lady of Victory, William Street 2021

Further south.William Street 2021

Delmonico’s, by gar.Delmonico's 2021

Or at least its 21st-century iteration, though in a fine old building. I understand there have been a few Delmonico’s down the centuries, since like the Dread Pirate Roberts, the name is the thing. I’m pretty sure the first time I ever heard of the place was years ago in this Charles Addams cartoon, when I didn’t really understand the joke.

I ducked over to Stone Street at this point.Stone Street 2021

It’s a happenin’ place, on Thursdays anyway.Stone Street 2021

At South William and Broad is the former International Telephone Building, once occupied by IT&T and designed by Buchman & Kahn in 1928.International Telephone Building International Telephone Building

Your voice goes wingedly around the world? Notice that underneath the winged figure, there are people using 1920s-style telephones, along with ’20s-style telephone poles with multiple crossarms.

One more place, this one on Broad.National Bank Note Company Building

Designed by Kirby, Petit & Green, the American Bank Note Company building dates from 1908. I’m always delighted to see a physical presence of something I’ve only ever read about.

Wall Street

Not too many streets get to be metonyms, but Wall Street does, which is a little remarkable for such a short street, only eight blocks from the East River to Broadway, or vice versa. During my walk along the street just before sunset, I wanted to take a closer look at the physical street, not its high finance subtext, which I hear about enough as it is.

I started at the East River Waterfront Esplanade, near where Wall Street meets South Street, which is partly under FDR Drive. You can catch a fine view of Brooklyn from the esplanade.East River, Dec 2021

That’s as close as I got to Brooklyn this time around, as opposed to some other trips.

An enlargement of the sidewalk on the easternmost block of Wall Street forms Mannahatta Park, a pleasant place with bushes and trees and benches. Rose bushes bloomed there this December.Wall Street 2021

More than two centuries ago, the site was New York’s slave market, and surely not a pleasant place. The city erected a sign only in 2015 to mark the doleful history of the site.

At the corner of Water and Wall is 88 Wall Street, these days the Wall Street Hotel, very much an upmarket property (and not where I stayed) that opened only this year in a former office building.Wall Street 2021

The hotel’s web site has an unusually long and detailed history of the site, which is only fitting, considering the richly layered history of the street. One of the more remarkable snippets of 88 Wall Street history is the fact that a series of two buildings on the site from 1791 to 1870 were owned by a tontine, and known as the Tontine Coffee House and then the Tontine Building. Out of the 203 investors who had funded the coffee house, seven survived to be beneficiaries of the tontine.

The current building, a Beaux-Arts structure designed by Clinton Holton & Russell in 1901, was for a time home to an import company that was, among many other things, the world’s largest dealer in mother-of-pearl. When plastic buttons bottomed out the market for that material, the company went into cultured pearls.

By the time you pass 88 Wall Street, the thoroughfare takes on its famed canyon-like aspect.Wall Street 2021

Next to 88 is 74 Wall Street. Its entrance caught my attention.Wall Street 2021

The ever-useful New York Songlines says: “This round-arched building was put up in 1926 as the Seamen’s Bank for Savings Headquarters (hence the seahorses, mermaids and other nautical motifs); the architect was Benjamin Wistar Morris.”

Nautical motifs, all right, though Seaman’s Bank is long gone.Wall Street 2021

Almost as remarkable, the building seems to be vacant. Then again, maybe not so remarkable. Despite the persistence of Wall Street as an metonym, and the presence of the New York Stock Exchange, the street hasn’t been the hub of U.S. finance in many years; that moved on to Midtown.

Though not on Wall Street, 1 Wall Street Court — the Beaver Building, 1904 — is visible from there.
1 Wall Street Court

67 Wall Street, now a residential co-op.Wall Street 2021 Wall Street 2021

Songlines again: “This 25-story triangular building, originally known as the Munson Building, was designed in 1906 by Kenneth M. Murchison for the Munson Steamship [Line]. From 1931 until 1972 it was the New York Cocoa Exchange.”

63 Wall Street.Wall Street 2021

60 Wall Street, a 1988 building designed by Kevin Roche John Dinkeloo.Wall Street 2021

Originally Morgan Bank’s HQ, these days Deutsche Bank occupies it. I found the lobby impressive.Wall Street 2021

Soon after this point, it’s pedestrians only. Trinity Church isn’t far away.Wall Street 2021

40 Wall Street.Wall Street 2021

Lots of history here. A picture of the upper section.

Songlines: “Formerly the Manhattan Bank Building, this was designed to be the tallest building in the world, but was beaten out by the Chrysler Building’s surprise spire…

“The Bank of the Manhattan Company, which eventually became Chase Manhattan, opened its first office here in September 1799. It was founded by Aaron Burr against the opposition of Alexander Hamilton. The New York Stock & Exchange Board, as the NYSE was then called, had its first permanent office here in 1817.

“Donald Trump calls this the Trump Building; please don’t encourage him.”

37 Wall Street.Wall Street 2021

A familiar name, but Tiffany’s is a fairly recent occupant. Designed by Francis H. Kimball, a very busy New York architect, the building originally housed the Trust Company of America in 1907, and then a series of other banks. The upper floors are now residential.

Before long, one comes to Federal Hall National Memorial, which is behind some scaffolding now.Wall Street 2021

George looks a bit cut off up there. Looking down pensively, perhaps, on the nation he created.Wall Street 2021

There’s plenty else on Wall Street that’s perhaps a little less permanent. For instance, sources of affordable food to price-oppressed New Yorkers.Wall Street 2021
Wall Street 2021

I bought a falafel at that first one, delicious and large enough to make part of dinner two nights in a row.

Also, men working.Wall Street 2021

Finally, I couldn’t very well come to Wall Street without a look at the NYSE (11 Wall Street), whose after-hours trading floor I got to visit in 2002.Wall Street 2021

“It’s a primary rain forest of electronic equipment — the guts of the capitalist beast — no, the sinews of the Invisible Hand,” I wrote at the time. Looking at the allegory-stuffed pediment, I’d also say Temple of Commerce.