Eclipse Leftovers

Time for a second spring break. It isn’t really spring unless you can squeeze in two. Back to posting around May 19.

Today didn’t much feel like spring, anyway. Cold drizzle. Not that cold, really, but it felt that way after a run of warm days.

I’ve read about people who become eclipse followers. There’s a word for it, at least according to Time: umbraphile. (Time is still a thing?) It’s an impulse I appreciate, but I don’t know that I’ll join them.

On the other hand, Pamplona (say) on August 12, 2026 sounds good in all sorts of ways, so we shall see. I’m not counting on being unshuffled when it comes to this mortal coil on August 12, 2045, which is the timing of the next North American total solar eclipse.

Last month, we passed through Farmington, Missouri, which is the seat of St. Francois County.Farmington, Missouri

The courthouse, fourth on the site, dates from the 1920s. “Innuendoes about fraud led to a grand jury investigation; the solution to the architect’s questionable procedure apparently was resolved by closer supervision,” says the University of Missouri about Norman Howard of St. Louis, the architect of the current courthouse.

There’s a story in that line, the details of which may be lost to time.

Who can you see outside an antique store on the main street of Potosi, Missouri? Betty!

Who can you see on the wall of the Laura Ingills Wilder Home in southern Missouri?Rose Wilder Lane

A young Rose Wilder Lane, Laura’s daughter and a writer herself, and apparently a foremother of modern libertarianism.

Spotted in downtown Nacogdoches. Nacogdoches

That’s a nicely designed memorial plaque. Showing the nine flags over Nacogdoches; the usual six in Texas lore, plus three more localized ones raised during various rebellions.

Did I make note of the landmarked building? It was nice enough, but not memorable. Lone Star Feeds, on the other hand —Lone Star Feed

A pet food plant, about 50 years old now.

For sale in Logansport, Louisiana.Logansport, La.

“Vintage oil tank,” yours for $200, as of April.

One of the murals I saw in Shreveport was prominently signed.Shreveport, La.

Your tax dollars at work: funding by the National Endowment for the Arts. Actually, that strikes me as a good way to spend a minuscule amount of federal dollars.

A redevelopment opportunity in Hot Springs, Arkansas.Hot Springs, Arkansas

That would take some serious coin, but maybe it could work. Step one, hire that structural engineer to do a report.

If you have the urge for barbecue in Hot Springs, this place will satisfy. Cookin Q since ’52.Stubby's, Hot Springs, Ark

The sort of place with license plates on the wall.Stubby's, Hot Springs, Ark

All that is window dressing. The ‘cue is the thing, and Stubby’s has lasted so long for a reason.Stubby's, Hot Springs, Ark

On the side of the road on highway Arkansas 7, part of a wayside park.Arkansas 7

The plaque reads:

Dedicated to the workers of the Arkansas Farmers Union Green Thumb whose efforts made this park possible so that others might enjoy the beauty of the state of Arkansas. January 1966 to December 1969. Lewis Johnson, Jr. State Director.

Green Thumb?

“Green Thumb was the first nonprofit organization to run a jobs program for disadvantaged rural Americans in response to the War on Poverty,” the union says, beginning in 1966, employing low-income rural residents to build things, something like the WPA or the CCC did. By the ’80s, Green Thumb had vanished.

At Uranus, Missouri, off I-44, Yuriko was driving and I happened to have my phone handy. We were too tired to stop.Uranus, Missouri

I’d driven by Uranus a few times, but not stopped. Something like the Snake Farm on I-35 between Austin and San Antonio. Clearly, I need to visit sometime. Uranus, that is. Maybe the Snake Farm, too.

“Beyond the appeal of what [Uranus owner Louie Keen] insisted was very good fudge, Uranus enticed travelers as a kind of dysfunctional, self-contained utopia, like South of the Border and Da Yoopers,” Roadside America says.

“Uranus, said Louie, was the kind of place tourists want to find on a road trip, with life-size dinosaurs, cheesy photo-ops, ridiculous souvenirs, two-headed freaks, the World’s Largest Belt Buckle, and various shops and attractions such as a hatchet-hurling venue named The Uranus Axehole.”

Shreveport Stopover

Back when I collected Texas highway maps, the presence of Shreveport – not in Texas, but close enough that it was depicted on those maps – made me wonder, why is there a city there? How could it be a port so far inland? Why don’t you ever hear much about it?

Those answers weren’t easy to look up in those days. Years passed, and I passed through Shreveport on I-20 a number of times, but never stopped. This time, approaching from the south on U.S. 171, I decided that we would, even if only for a short visit. Some things considered, short might be best.Downtown Shreveport Downtown Shreveport

I looked into the origin of the city. The generally forgotten but incredibly remarkable Henry Miller Shreve, though not the founder himself, made the town possible. “A giant among America’s rivermen,” says the National Mississippi River Museum & Aquarium in Dubuque.

“In 1826 Shreve accepted the post of Superintendent of Western River Improvements. He began by designing a double-hulled boat with steam power operating a windlass to yank snags from the river. The first snag boat, the Heliopolis, was an immediate success, and in 1832, Shreve was ordered by the Secretary of War to clear the ‘Great Raft’ of rotten logs, trees, and debris estimated to be 150 miles long, out of the Red River. Shreve had to battle short funds but by 1839 the Red was clear and Shreve’s fame was insured.”

As it happened, the future site of Shreveport was where the the Texas Trail, a route into Texas, met the now-navigable Red River. The Shreve Town Co. founded Shreve Town in 1836.

Sunday, April 14, proved to be quite warm in Shreveport. Downtown was almost empty, and I have to wonder whether there’s much more activity on a weekday. At some point in the city’s recent history, Shreveport and Bossier City decided that casinos would be just the thing to juice up the downtown economy, or at least draw Texans to its gaming destinations.Downtown Shreveport

Besides Sam’s, nearby casinos include Bally’s, Margaritaville Resort Casino, Horseshoe Bossier City (Caesars) and Boomtown Casino Hotel. There’s also a spot of adult entertainment in the neighborhood. Downtown Shreveport

I didn’t know Mr. Flynt was still around. He isn’t, having died a few years ago. But the brand clearly lives on.

One of the bridges crossing the Red at Shreveport carries Texas Street.Downtown Shreveport

The underpass, near the riverfront, is a pleasant place to stroll. Not a bad example of placemaking. A number of restaurants and bars line the way, which is part of what the city calls the Red River District. Artwork graces the district, such as this mosaic. Shreveport does have an extensive musical history, including Elvis singing about doughnuts.Downtown Shreveport Downtown Shreveport

The bridge columns aren’t unadorned either.Downtown Shreveport Downtown Shreveport Downtown Shreveport

Formally the underpass is called Louisiana Purchase Plaza, though I wonder whether anyone calls it that. In any case, Downtown Shreveport says that the work on the columns “focuses on the distinct cultures that helped to define Northwest Louisiana — African American, Indian, French, Spanish and Cajun; the three contributing artists for the columns came from Baton Rouge, New Orleans and Shreveport.”

Footprints also mark the walkway. I assume these are impressions made by famed – Sheveportians? Shreveportoids? Shreveporters, Wiki asserts.Downtown Shreveport Downtown Shreveport

I didn’t recognize any of them. Jim McCullough Jr. (d. 2012) must be this fellow. Kix Brooks is still with us.

We had lunch – leftover pizza that had been warming in its box in the back seat that morning – at the riverfront, within sight of the Red and Bossier City across the way, and a railroad bridge.Downtown Shreveport

And near bronze pelicans.Downtown Shreveport

Of course there are pelicans. Shreveport might be close to Texas, but it’s certainly Louisiana.

Center, Texas & Logansport, Louisiana

The town of Center, Texas is in East Texas, while the town of West, Texas is in Central Texas. Just a mild example of Texas naming oddities. This is the state with Cut and Shoot, Dime Box and Jot-Em-Down, after all.

We spent the night in Center (pop. 5,200) and the next morning, April 14, took a look around the Shelby County Courthouse, which also happens to the focus of downtown Center.Shelby County Courthouse, Texas Shelby County Courthouse, Texas

It’s a less common style for courthouses, Romanesque Revival, at least in my experience. Impressive brickwork. The story of one John Joseph Emmett Gibson is given in a Texas Historical Commission sign on the site. Originally a brickmaker from Ireland, Gibson ultimately made his way to Texas, in time to design and oversee construction of the courthouse in the 1880s, showing off his skill with bricks.

Older than the courthouse is the nearby former jail. These days home to the local C-of-C.Shelby County Courthouse, Texas, old jail

An assortment of buildings line the square. Mostly occupied. That includes the art deco Rio, open since 1926 as a movie theater, without having been closed or put to any other use since then, which is remarkable in itself.Rio Movie Theater, Center, Texas Rio Movie Theater, Center, Texas

Not a retro theater, either, but one showing new movies. Such as Unsung Hero and The Fall Guy, coming soon.

Unsung Hero is a 2024 American Christian drama film directed by Richard Ramsey and Joel Smallbone. The film follows Rebecca, Joel, and Luke Smallbone of For King & Country, and their life journey to become Christian recording artists.”

The Fall Guy is a 2024 American action comedy film directed by David Leitch and written by Drew Pearce, loosely based on the 1980s TV series about stunt performers. The film follows a stuntman working on his ex-girlfriend’s directorial debut action film, only to find himself involved in a conspiracy surrounding the film’s lead actor.”

I’d never heard of either of them, but now I have. 1980s TV series about stunt performers? That didn’t ring a bell either. So that’s what Glen A. Larson did after the implosion of the original Battlestar Galactica, and Lee Majors did after the Six Million Dollar Man was retired for lack of replacement parts.

How did I miss that? Right, I didn’t have a television in the ’80s.

More buildings on the square.Downtown Center, Texas Downtown Center, Texas

One that’s small but stately. Farmers of Shelby County, it says, your money is safe here.Farmers State Bank, Center, Texas

It was. Farmers is still an ongoing operation, nearly 120 years after its founding. The bank still occupies the building, and has other locations in East Texas.

Not every building on the square is occupied.Downtown Center, Texas

Not every building is even a building any more, but clues remain.Downtown Center, Texas, O.H. Polley ruin Downtown Center, Texas, O.H. Polley ruin

That didn’t take long to look up. Site of a dry goods store for much of the 20th century.

Shelby County partly borders De Soto Parish, Louisiana. That morning, we headed for the border, driving on Texas 7 and then U.S. 84 until we got to a town without any sign noting its name (or maybe we missed it), crossing a river without any identification either. I remembered I wanted to mail a few postcards when I saw a sign pointing the way to a post office. When we got to the p.o., I saw that we were in Logansport, Louisiana. We’d crossed the Sabine River, but as noted, there was nothing to tell us that.

Missed the former international boundary marker, too. I didn’t read about it until later. It’s a few miles out of Logansport (pop. 1,300), and once (and briefly) marked the border between the Republic of Texas and the United States.

No matter. Took a look around Logansport.Logansport, Louisiana

Here’s the name we missed. Not on the road we came in on.Logansport, La

Main Street.Logansport, La Logansport, La Logansport, La

Seen in a shop window in Main Street. Do they celebrate Mardi Gras in Logansport?Logansport, La

Yes they do, in the form of a parade put on my an outfit called the Krewe of Aquarius.

We spent some time in a resale store on the main street, Swamp Water Flea Market. I spotted something I don’t think I’ve ever seen at a resale shop.Logansport, La

Yours for $150, an antique leg iron. Not sure I’d want to have it around. Seems like a haunted artifact that might land you in an episode of The Twilight Zone.

WWOZ’s Shrove Tuesday

Woke up this morning and for a few moments thought it was Thursday. Went downstairs (my commute), fired up the laptop (odd phrasing, when you think about it) and soon realized it was Wednesday. Fridays are still the best workdays, naturally, but Thursdays aren’t bad either. You still have Friday to look forward to. So I must have wanted it to be Thursday.

Still, that’s odd, since I was fully aware of it being Shrove Tuesday the day before. As time allowed during the day, I listened online to WWOZ, nonprofit radio out of New Orleans that broadcasts New Orleans and Louisiana music. I’m sure it’s a local treasure. It should be a national treasure. It was one of the first online radio stations I ever encountered, by happy chance back in the early 2000s, when maintaining a connection consistently was no sure thing, especially if you used an iMac. I don’t listen to it enough.

But I did on Tuesday, for obvious reasons, and the celebration was on all day. The guys behind the mike got especially giddy as the evening wore on, maybe even rowdy, though I didn’t hear anything breaking. Just the kind of happy DJs – and those with some personality on display – that radio consolidation and rote programming have mostly banished from the airwaves.

Except maybe for morons in the morning? You know, drivetime voices, often a man and a woman, who yuk it up between songs and commercials and news snips, without regard to good sense or good taste. Is that still a thing? My commute, as you’d think, doesn’t involve radio.

Such duos were so much a part of radio programming 20 years ago that another of first radio stations I heard online, one from Sydney, as in Australia, was being hosted by a man and a woman – who yukked it up without regard to sense or taste. But with such fun Australian accents that I didn’t mind listening a while.

Now I seem to have further evidence that the algorithms are getting better. Better at drawing conclusions from their spying. Today those opaque entities suggested a version of “St. James Infirmary Blues” that I didn’t know.

Wow, that’s good. Tom Jones and the talented Rhiannon Giddens, once of the Carolina Chocolate Drops.

The song is associated with New Orleans jazzmen, of course, especially Louie Armstrong, and I spent a lot of yesterday with Carnival in the background. So was that the connection the machine made? Or is it that I’ve listened to many other versions of the song, or a clip from the same show, or all that other jazz (and I mean that literally and figuratively)? The bots ain’t telling.

Heaven on Seven No More

I learned over the weekend that the restaurant Heaven on Seven, closed since early 2020, has closed permanently. I will miss it. Before the pandemic, I went there once a year or so, even after I quit working downtown.

The joint had much to recommend it, but especially its first-rate Louisiana cuisine. Over the years I had the jambalaya, crawfish etouffee, gumbo, red beans and rice, fried oysters, crab cakes, various po’ boys and pies, and more. The New Orleans decor charmed without being overwhelming, and its seventh floor location at 111 N. Wabash in Chicago’s Loop (the storied Garland Building) had little signage to guide you there. You either knew where it was or you didn’t, especially in the days before the Internet. I can’t remember who introduced me to it, but it was sometime in the late ’80s.

Also, and I can’t stress this enough, the dishes at Heaven on Seven weren’t the creation of some big-deal chef who “curated” some “artisanal” cuisine using “local” ingredients “cooked to perfection” to reach some height of “authenticity.” All of that adds up to an overpriced place that people praise because a restaurant can’t really be good if you pay modest prices, can it?

No. At Heaven on Seven, talented cooks created wonderful dishes to remind you of those days and nights in New Orleans or even Lafayette, without inflicting high prices on its patrons.

Just as important, it was never a place to go alone.Heaven on Seven

Pictured are old friends Kevin and Wendy, whom I met there a number of times for enjoyable lunches. That time was in 2013.

Southern Loop ’21 Scraps

Near-summer weather to a tee visited northern Illinois over the weekend — next week will be chillier, I read — with cloud puffs ambling along the completely pleasant warm air, except maybe for persistent strong gusts of wind, a mild sirocco. Those gusts didn’t keep us from walking the dog or me from idling on our deck, reading or resting my eyeballs, but they did put the kibosh on taking any meals as a family out there.

My stop in New Madrid, Missouri, on April 10 was brief, but long enough to get a look at the handsome county courthouse.

New Madrid County Courthouse

“Cornerstone ceremonies were July 4, 1915, for the Classical Greek Revival style building of white sandstone and porcelain brick with a copper box laid in the northeast corner containing copies of all New Madrid County and St. Louis newspapers and carefully prepared historical events, including the names of the citizens who contributed the $20,000, names of all county officers, etc.,” says the courthouse web site. Sounds like a dull time capsule, but never mind.

“Additional funds for finishing the courthouse and jail were authorized early in 1917, but no bids were received… Finally, W. W. Taylor, a master builder from Cape Girardeau, superintended final interior work, which included marble stairways with cast iron railings and a large rotunda with a stained glass window in the ceiling that was completed in January 1919.”

Closed on Sunday. Maybe closed for the pandemic, anyway, so the marble and stained glass and more weren’t visible to me. Hope the courthouse was built to resist seismic events (as much as possible 100 years ago), or refit in more recent years.

A survey marker at Fort Pillow State Historic Site, Tennessee. Always interesting to run across one.

A view of the Mississippi at Fort Pillow.
Fort Pillow

A retail scene from Clarksdale, Mississippi. Something Amazon cannot replace.
Clarksdale Mississippi
Despite the glowing neon, the shop — called Cat Head — wasn’t open on a Sunday morning.

Keep the Blues Alive

A scene from rural Mississippi, where perhaps the landowner recognizes no political authority.
Jolly Roger Mississippi

Even in small-town Mississippi, you’ll see these.
Vicksburg scooter

The American Rose Center is a 118-acre wooded spot just west of Shreveport, and home to the national headquarters of the American Rose Society.
American Rose Center

I was a few weeks too early. A few roses were in bloom, but not many. Mostly still buds, and a lot of them. Even so, lovely grounds.American Rose Center

American Rose Center
Including a Japanese-style pavilion.

American Rose Center

American Rose Center
As I said, a few blooms.

American Rose Center

American Rose Center
You don’t have to go all the way to Corsicana, Texas, to buy a fruitcake at the Collins Street Bakery. There’s a store just off I-20 in Lindale, Texas, with a cafe and a towering sign. I stopped and bought a big fruitcake, which is mostly gone now, eaten a bit at a time by me, Jay, Yuriko and Ann.Collins Street Bakery Lindale

Collins Street Bakery Lindale

In Grand Saline, Texas, a town that salt built, is a structure called the Salt Palace Museum and Visitors Center, which is on Main Street.

Salt Palace Museum and Visitors Center
Palace it is not, though it is built partly of salt, and there’s a big block of salt to examine out front.

Salt Palace Museum and Visitors Center

When in Paris, Texas, what does one naturally go to see? The Paris, Texas, Eiffel Tower, of course. Despite the rain.
Paris Texas Eiffel Tower

Less well known is a memorial to the Paris Tornado of 1982. It killed 10 people, injured many more, and did a lot of property damage.Paris Tornado 1982 Memorial

It’s in the same park as this sad-looking memorial.
Bywaters Park Memorial

That’s the Bywaters Park Memorial, with a plaque that says: In grateful memory of J.K. Bywaters, who gave this park to the people of the city he loved so well. 1916.

In Fort Smith, Arkansas, I spotted this mural.
First National Bank Fort Smith Brain mural

Which is on the backside of this building — First National Bank — next to the bank’s drive-through lanes.
First National Bank Fort Smith Brain mural

In Bella Vista, Arkansas, which is in the extreme northwest part of the state just south of the Missouri line, is the Mildred B. Cooper Memorial Chapel, a structure dating from 1988, designed by designed by E. Fay Jones and Maurice Jennings. Jones is best known for the Thorncrown Chapel, also in Arkansas.

Mildred Cooper Chapel
Sure, the sign said an event was in progress. A wedding, of course, since my visit was on a Saturday. But I saw people clearly dressed for a wedding pouring into the parking lot as I arrived, so I figured I might have caught the place between weddings.

No. People were still inside, with some kind of event going on, so I figure as soon as one wedding ceremony is over on a warm spring Saturday at Mildred B. Cooper, another gets underway. I took a good look at the exterior, anyway. Understated elegance.
Mildred Cooper Chapel

In Collinsville, Illinois, you can see the “world’s largest catsup bottle.”

Collinsville catsup bottle

Collinsville catsup bottle

It has its own fan club and web site.

“This unique 170 ft. tall water tower was built in 1949 by the W.E. Caldwell Company for the G.S. Suppiger catsup bottling plant — bottlers of Brooks old original rich & tangy catsup,” the site says.

Philistines almost had it torn down. “In 1995, due to the efforts of the Catsup Bottle Preservation Group, this landmark roadside attraction was saved from demolition and beautifully restored to its original appearance,” the site continues.

The Pink Elephant Antique Mall in Livingston, Illinois, not far northeast of St. Louis, has a big pink elephant in front, as I’ve posted. But that’s not all. Not by a long shot.

This is the mall — a complex of buildings stuffed with antiques, collectibles and other junk. There’s a diner, too.
Pink Elephant Antique Mall

I didn’t inspect them closely, but I take the statues out front to be made of fiberglass (maybe cast in Wisconsin).

Pink Elephant Antique Mall

Pink Elephant Antique Mall

Pink Elephant Antique Mall

A sign under that fellow wearing the MAGA hat — now, what was his name again? — said NOT A POLITICAL STATEMENT. LOVE HIM OR HATE HIM.

Finally, the grounds included something I’ve long wanted to see, but never had gotten around to, a Futuro House.Pink Elephant Antique Mall

The windows, some completely open, were at about eye level for me. Ever wonder what’s in a Futuro House?
Pink Elephant Antique Mall
Not much, at least this one.

Poverty Point World Heritage Site

West from Vicksburg and a little north of I-20 on US 65 is Transylvania, Louisiana, pop. scant. Now I can say I’ve been to Transylvania. I missed a turn, and realized it after a few miles, by which time I was near a school that needs roof repairs. Or an abandoned school building. I pulled over within sight of the structure to consult my maps.

Transylvania, Louisiana

Soon I was headed by the correct small roads to Poverty Point World Heritage Site, which has an address in Epps, Louisiana, but that’s just the nearest currently inhabited town. The site is firmly in the countryside.

Its signs stress the World Heritage status accorded the site a few years ago. Poverty Point also happens to be a U.S. National Monument.Poverty Point Louisiana

On this site, in the second millennium BC, the people who dwelled here spent centuries building enormous mounds and ridges of earth by hand. The thought of that conjures up a past so remote that our image of them is one of shades, whispering in a language we can’t comprehend, pushing this collective building goal forward for reasons we cannot possibly know.

What you see close after the beginning of the third millennium AD is wide green fields, modestly undulating. Off in the distance are copses of trees, more fields and other natural land contour. The day was pleasantly warm.Poverty Point Louisiana

Poverty Point Louisiana

Poverty Point Louisiana

“Hand by hand and basketful by basketful, men and women shaped nearly 2 million cubic yards of soil into stunning landscapes,” the site’s web site says. “The result was a massive 72-foot-tall mound, enormous concentric half-circles and related earthworks that dwarfed every other earthen monument site for 2,200 years.”

Mound B beats them all. The largest ever built by a hunter-gatherer population.

Poverty Point Louisiana

Poverty Point Louisiana

A further estimate on a sign near the mound says it would have taken 15.5 million loads of earth to build this single mound.

Poverty Point Louisiana Poverty Point Louisiana

Poverty Point Louisiana

It’s a brain bender. Imagine a time and place when virtually everything you know, or have seen, or believed, wouldn’t exist for thousands of years.

Mm, Wild Pecan Rice

Hanging on the wall near our kitchen is an empty burlap bag that once contained 2 lbs. of Konriko Wild Pecan Rice.

I bought the rice during my visit to New Iberia, Louisiana, in the summer of 2009, when I stopped at the Conrad Rice Mill, a local tourist attraction but also a functioning rice mill. I’m glad to say that even now the mill is still in business, producing rice and other products. When I was there, the mill’s centennial was coming up in a few years; now it’s well past.

The rice included no pecans. The bag, and the Conrad Rice Mill web site, are careful to note that. The bag promises a “nutty aroma and a subtle pecan-like flavor.”

The rice is long gone, and we probably enjoyed it, but what I really like is the bag. That’s my kind of souvenir. Other examples kicking around the house include the small can that used to contain some reindeer pate, acquired on the Finnish ferry between Helsinki and Tallinn, and the front panels from some small cereal boxes acquired in Mexico.

Twelve Pictures ’19

I always take many more pictures than I post in any given year. Here are some from this year to close out the decade. Back to posting around January 5, 2020. That year sounds so far in the future, at least for those of us who vaguely remember Sealab 2020 — and yet here it is.

Near North Side Chicago, January 2019

San Antonio, February 2019

Downtown Chicago, March 2019

Elmhurst, Illinois, April 2019

New Orleans, May 2019

Arcola, Illinois, June 2019

Pittsburgh, July 2019

Oak Park, Illinois, August 2019

Midland, Michigan, September 2019

Charlottesville, Virginia, October 2019

Schaumburg, Illinois, November 2019

Millennium Park, Chicago, December 2019Good Christmas and New Year to all.

Louisiana Capitol Views 2009

This year’s loop around the South was something like the loop I drove 10 years ago, but with key differences. For instance, I was by myself that time, and bypassed such places as New Orleans and Nashville. Instead I spent time in smaller places, such as Lafayette and Baton Rouge. In the capital, I visited the house — the state house — that Huey Long built, Louisiana’s art deco state capitol.

It’s a handsome building. Long hired a Louisiana architect, Leon C. Weiss, to design the building. No relation to his assassin Weiss, apparently.

The garden front of the capitol, whose centerpiece is a memorial to the Kingfish, is also a cemetery with one occupant, Huey Long himself.

Louisiana Capitol - Long GraveThe observation deck on the capitol’s 27th floor, which charged no admission when I was there, has some splendid views of the Mississippi and the city.

Looking south toward downtown Baton Rouge.
Louisiana Capitol - downtownNorth toward industrial Baton Rouge.
Petrochemicals. In fact, much of the view is taken up by ExxonMobil’s Baton Rouge Refinery, one of the nation’s largest such facilities.